Smallscreen Features
Hell's Kitchen's Gordon Ramsay: the full interview
By April MacIntyre Jan 30, 2009, 3:40 GMT
If you can\'t stand the heat...Hot-tempered chef Gordon Ramsay is ready to torture another batch of culinary hopefuls on the third season of Fox\'s Hell\'s Kitchen. Contestants will work their way through various cooking challenges and each week one chef will be asked to turn in their knives and sporks. The competition is heating up; who will be able to keep their cool in Hell\'s Kitchen? ...more
Scottish-born chef Gordon Ramsay has had a whirlwind life in the last few years. His mettle has been tested; first with a brother arrested overseas on drug charges, and then an alleged mistress surfacing in England; despite this, Ramsay has not slowed down nor buckled from the heat of his personal life.
Ramsay is full bore on FOX once again, his runaway hit "Hell's Kitchen" airs the premiere episode of the new season tonight, and promises to be a compelling watch, given he has separated the boys from the girls in competing teams.
Ramsay is a top chef, savvy businessman and a profane wordsmith who has less of a tether on him in the UK versions of his show, which allow the colorful banter to flow. His first career break came while playing football for Oxford United, where he was spotted by a Glasgow Rangers scout in an F.A. youth club match. He was signed by the Scottish champions at the age of 15. Three years later he had given up professional football and gone back to college to complete a course in hotel management.
His culinary career was established in London, where he joined Marco Pierre White in the early days of Harvey's in Wandsworth. After a couple of years, Ramsay moved to Le Gavroche to work alongside Albert Roux.
This was followed by three years of working in France in the kitchens of Guy Savoy and Joël Robuchon, where he enhanced his expertise in classic French cooking.
In 1998 at the age of 31, Gordon set up his first door: Gordon Ramsay, on the former site of La Tante Claire in Chelsea. A year later he opened Pétrus with his protégé Marcus Wareing as Chef Patron, in St. James's. Within seven months it had won a Michelin star.
In 2000, this led to Ramsay taking the Chef of the Year Award at the Cateys. His restaurant Gordon Ramsay was voted the Top Restaurant in the UK in the 2001 London Zagat Survey and was also named as the best Fine Dining Restaurant in the 2001 Harden's Guide. These ratings continued in 2002, 2003, 2004 and 2005.
On Jan. 19, 2001, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay gained its third Michelin star in the Michelin Red Guide Great Britain & Ireland.
In October 2001, Ramsay opened Gordon Ramsay at Claridge's, which gained a Michelin star in 2003.
May 2004 saw Ramsay star in “Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares,” a series of four one-hour programs later awarded a BAFTA (British Academy of Film and Television Arts) Award.
Ramsay was then given two weeks to direct a group of celebrities toward Michelin-standard cooking in the ITV series “Hell’s Kitchen.”
2005 confirmed Ramsay as one of the UK's major television talents. A second season of “Ramsay's Kitchen Nightmares” was followed by the very successful U.S. version of Hell's Kitchen for FOX.
November brought the debut of “The F Word,” which shows cooking, food campaigns and celebrity guests.
In November Ramsay made his U.S. restaurant debut with the opening of Gordon Ramsay at The London, in The London NYC Hotel in New York. Formal dining takes cues from Restaurant Gordon Ramsay on Royal Hospital Road in Chelsea, whereas The London Bar offers a more casual dining and bar experience, modeled on the small-plates concept of Ramsay’s latest British restaurant, Maze.
In March 2007, Ramsay opened his first pub, The Narrow in London’s Limehouse. Located in a historic building on the banks of the River Thames, The Narrow serves classic British dishes in a relaxed environment.
Gordon’s second pub, The Warrington, will open in Maida Vale later this year, following a major restoration and renovation.
2008 will see many more exciting projects, including the launch of Gordon Ramsay at The London, West Hollywood, and the opening of a restaurant at the newly built Terminal 5 at Heathrow Airport, London.
Hell’s Kitchen airs January 29th at 9:00 p.m. on Fox.
Monsters and Critics joined a select group of online journalists and asked Hell’s Kitchen Gordon Ramsay all about cooking, food and his new season.
Chef. Now in your estimation, in the classic Escoffier kitchen where you have the 12 stations, 12 different chefs, other than the head chef, who is the most skilled and most difficult station that they man? Who do you have the most respect for?
G. Ramsay Good question. Cooking, searing meats is a lot easier than cooking fish. With meat you have a different scale of temperature – different meats with different sort of levels of fat, whether it’s a …render the fat down or whether you’re cooking or searing …
For the sort of mainstream technical touching beef and understanding with your eyes closed when something’s rare to medium to medium well. And I always look at a young chef and ask him to overcook me a steak, and I don’t want it black and charcoaled on the outside and dry on the inside, so doing your steak well done really shows how …chef is, really, by coloring it, searing it, and more importantly, keeping it moist in the center.
The real skill is in cooking fish. When you cook fish, a) 95% of the cooking temperature must take place in the skin so the fish doesn’t dry out; and more importantly, there’s no such thing as a medium, mid-rare, mid-well. It’s one temperature and one temperature only.
Gordon, if any chef in the world could prepare you a meal, who would it be? Who would you select in your group of peers?
G. Ramsay: I’ve been following John George for the last ten years. I’ve always drawn a huge source of inspiration coming out of New York. I think Thomas Keller has been legendary.
But I have to say, I had one dinner three months ago at an amazing restaurant downtown in Santa Monica, Melisse, a young California chef,… I think this guy could be the next big hit here in California.
It was extraordinary. He’d done his signature dishes, etc., and he just went off the menu. And I said, “Look, you’ve gone familiar and you’ve gone crazy. Put that back on the menu and have the confidence to just show off. Because what you just finished cooking me is some of the best food I’ve ever eaten.”
Have you seen a change in the caliber of people who are trying to be on the show?
G. Ramsay: I think for me, more than anything, the sort of terms of reality TV…I run a restaurant, so of course we lock horns. By the end of the day, I have to be honest, season five for me is: a) the most competitive; b) I will stick my neck out on this one and the top four contestants this year could have quite easily won in any of the previous years.
So that’s what I’m faced with in terms of talent. Very exciting because it’s just raising the game and the prime time thing, you know, that’s not relevant to me because that’s not what I’m about.
But of course it’s of great importance, but more importantly I focus on the talent. And I go through that shit fight for the first six or seven weeks and then I get rid of the sort of donkeys and I focus on the talent.
So I take it on an equal patter, but I have to say you’re absolutely right: it’s just getting more and more pressurized because the talent is becoming far greater, which really puts me in the scrutiny, but more importantly, helps to make my job, truthfully, ten times more exciting.
Why is a properly cooked Beef Wellington such a Herculean task for the chefs on your show?
G. Ramsay: Don’t. I’m taking it off now. I’ve thrown the towel in. I’m so frustrated. That dish cooks itself. The battle of that dish, 90% of the organization is done sort of for you.
So it’s a dish that is down to pure timing. You don’t even tough it in a way that it’s cooked in a convection oven …and then you slice the end, trim it and serve it.
It’s a joy and something that I’m going to admit the seat on that front and take off the Beef Wellington. And I suppose that’s the one dish that helps to make me feel less homesick when I’m spending as much time as I am over here. …I know how to do it perfectly. And even my children know how to do it perfectly. So when I see these muppets messing around, and all they have to do is prep it perfectly and it cooks itself. You don’t touch it, you don’t sear it, you don’t season it, it’s just done. Put it in the oven, let it go. So yes, hands down, no more Wellington.
Fox gave you a blind commitment for a third series and also it’s a deal that you’ll be hosting a live cooking special. Any update you can give us on them?
G. Ramsay: Yes, of course. First of all, I have to say, cooking in Hell’s Kitchen is like a live scenario anyway. The producers are constantly chasing my butt saying, “We would like to see this.” I’m saying, “What would you like to see?”
I’m not interested. All I want to see is food on a plate. I can’t script a service. I don’t know how early or late the customer’s going to turn up, so everything is very natural. So in that sense we cook live.
The live cook along, yes, it has been picked up and it’s going to be a huge excitement. I can’t wait to go live. I suppose the frustration is the sort of cooking shows on air currently that don’t cook.
It’s one that was prepped earlier by some home economist behind the scenes and that’s not cooking. Cooking is a passion and it’s live and it’s really nice to show that journey from a raw ingredient to an hour later something finished. And for me the confidence levels go up tenfold, a 1000%, because you’re following it and it’s changing its texture and the flavor’s getting better and you get more and more confident as you start with a raw ingredient. So, I’m really excited that Fox is excited about the live show and it’s something I can’t wait for.
No cursing, that’s the deal. So I’m fucked.
What about the reported feud with Mario Batali. Has he really banned you from all of his restaurants?
G. Ramsay: It’s really sad, I’ve never met Mario Batali. Obviously the man’s a very talented chef. There was a statement last year about me cooking 1980s dated food.
Well, I’m really sorry, I had dinner with Bill Berfus from The New Yorker and for an interview a couple of years ago and the food was embarrassing. So, Bill got upset and sent the food back, it was sea bass, because it was off.
So, I wouldn’t send any chef an off sea bass, but today I respect him, he’s an amazing chef, but as far as I’m concerned I haven’t been banned from his restaurants. But listen, at the end of the day we’re all in this looking for the same customer. So, Christ, if we can’t get on, what’s the big deal? But I don’t have any problem with Mario Batali.
How much time, if any, do you get to spend actually coaching some of the really good, talented chefs that you get on the show?
G. Ramsay: There is a downtime period as the stakes get higher. Season five prior to this was incredibly significant in terms of where they go and how much we coach them.
I can’t afford to look stupid on the back of announcing a winner, so here in LA it’s a lot easier for me now that we’ve got the …West Hollywood. We’re very lucky to win that …within three months of opening.
We had a difficult opening because it’s adapting to the climate, which is not like cooking in Europe. So New York was difficult as well, but we’re getting there. So I’ve got the backdrop of having a professional kitchen and giving them access to my set-up over here, whether they’re on the East Coast in New York or here in LA. So, yes, they get a considerable amount of coaching.
What can you tell us about this year’s grand prize, the Borgata?
G. Ramsay: They’re going to take up a head chef position at the Borgata Hotel, fantastic resorts. It’s going to be a fine dining, unique new build, great interior, intimate setting.
And more importantly, a perfect platform. I’m very excited about this. One of the best prizes you’ve ever had so far. But having been there on an occasion, the place is sort of, I suppose, …answer to Vegas just out of New York. So, exciting, fun and very them being part of sort of the design of the restaurant. So more importantly, …. Great.
Can you mention some of the new chef contestants?
G. Ramsay God, yes, I’d love to talk about the individuals.
Ben, extraordinary. Again, tenacious - very, very flamboyant. As you know, I love Chicago; always have in terms of eating out. I always get frustrated when they don’t get the spotlight as much as New York does. But when you look at … and … in New York, and even going back to the days of Blackbird, …what Blackbird’s done in terms of setting the trend.
So, Ben is like having a rhinoceros in the kitchen. He’s non-stop. He’s energetic, a powerhouse. The fascinating thing is when you discipline a young chef, it’s the response that tells you how long they’ve got in this industry and Ben’s attitude was 100% professional in terms of, yes, he got knocked down, but he came back to be twice as strong, which is what I want to see.
Will, on the other hand, cooking is an internal thing; it’s something that comes from the heart. He’s very clever, very articulate; very, very calm in terms of putting it together. I enjoyed working with both of them.
Compare your level of competition to Top Chef.
G. Ramsay: It’s really funny, because there’s always, I get told by …I had one that didn’t get Hell’s Kitchen and ended up on Top Chef. So there’s obviously a huge competitive streak there.
Top Chef has done phenomenally well and is doing brilliantly on Bravo. Where I find my frustration with Top Chef is a challenge is a challenge. I put my contestants, my chefs under real scrutiny, that they’re running a restaurant because I’m giving the restaurant away. So the jeopardy is not because they’re a lot more important, but I put them through the paces and understand that it’s more of an entrepreneurial skill as well, not just dealing with the kitchen, the management, the delegations, the level of professionalism, but the overall aspect of it.
Chefs today have got to be better than just cooks. They have to be more applicable to the ever changing climate.
So we’ve seen a downturn globally in terms of the recession, so everyone’s tightening their belts and even I’m tightening my belt. So chefs, I hate that word businessman, but it’s, first of all, a culinary palate, a character, a level of assertiveness, an entrepreneurial skill in terms of man management. And more importantly, across all that it’s a business.
So very few programs hold that level of integrity and I like to think that we try each and every season to really give them a rounded experience.
With everything that you’ve accomplished in your career, are you still primarily a chef?
G. Ramsay: I’m always learning. I spent two weeks before Christmas down in Kyoto where I went to some amazing regional proper historic Japanese cuisine.
I found out there’s a huge source of integration. I suppose what I’ve always been scared of is being in a situation with any ingredient anywhere in the world and not known what to do with them. So I have a huge excitement this May on visiting India for the first time in my career and I’m going on a journey, because I’m going to the region, I’m backpacking and I suppose I want to come down two or three divisions and sort of get to the heart of the food of the people.
And it’s called Gordon Ramsay’s Great Escape and I’m really excited about it because it’s being left in a situation along with sort of …, but going a little bit deeper into the sort of cult social following and where it started, and looking at the beginning, the heartbeat of how that dish was formulated. And to what’s happened, to how many people have abused it along the way to where we are now. So yes, always learning; constantly.
How do the contestants teams, separated by gender, stack up?
G. Ramsay: Well, I have to be honest, there’s a level of competitiveness that they’re equally matched in both teams, clearly, but there’s quite a surprising, refreshing attitude to the girls. They seem to learn quicker.
Where they may sort of bitch and sort of get upset with each other internally, it’s nothing to do with me. I don’t want to have problems down in my kitchen.
Where the men become more sort of aggressive and far more bonded in a way with less barriers, but they learn slower. So I don’t know why this year and more than ever before, but being in that pressurized environment and you’ve got eight to ten individuals that are incredibly talented, they’re going to offload and explode. So yes, the ladies this season have been phenomenal. The guys are being sort of grumpy, arrogant and they take longer to learn. So, I can deal with that crap, trust me.
Are there certain characteristics you’re looking for in contestants that you may have not been before?
G. Ramsay: To be honest, I said earlier, I was under immense pressure this year because of the standards of cooks in the signature dishes, which was refreshing. I had one thing I never managed to achieve was to complete a first night dinner service. So even as I’m talking to you now, the ambition next time …to complete our first nights dinner service. So that’s crucial.
But there’s always a level of change in terms of attitude, because the stakes are getting bigger. Something to do with …prime time. That’s all out of my box. It has nothing to do with me. But what I do do, the better the chef, the more intense and more importantly the more difficult I can make the scenario, because I know what’s at stake in terms of the out, the competition, prize and what’s at stake at the end of it. And I want these guys to shine, I want them to go on and use this as a platform to evolve and develop and not get caught up in the TV world.
One serious piece of advice I give them, I’m very lucky at the age of 42, I’ve got the foundation of my cooking career, 21 years …, still cooking, still learning. But more importantly, yeah, the TV is there and it’s important, but my …are just as important and I make that clear to them each and every day.
After all of these years of seeing you on this show, do you find that the contestants are getting somewhat desensitized to your personality to some degree and that you have to be bigger in order to get their attention, that they know what to expect from you?
G. Ramsay: No. I mean, to be honest, I would say I’d have to put myself in a more awkward manner to become tougher on them. I scream for talent. I want to challenge everyone, because that’s where I’m at home. I have that level of perfection that’s been inside for a long time. Passing on that knowledge of making them better individuals is part of the enjoyment, I suppose – the payback for me.
But you’re always going to be confronted and you’re always going to get sort of on the spot scenarios, and it’s quite interesting when you look at their individual characters. And of course it gets a little bit busy for the first couple of weeks because there’s so many of them and you’re trying to focus on the good ones and understand the weak points, and I came to help the weak ones, throw them some form of life line and if they don’t respond, then they’ve got to go.
But even in Kitchen Nightmares I had a situation in my own restaurant last week in New York where one of the line cooks got upset when he overcooked the New York Strip and his response was, he just put his head down. I said, “Listen, your response stinks. You’re standing there like a petulant teenager.
You’re 29 years of age. You earn $70,000 a year and you’re talking to me like you’re a baby. Get a grip. You can’t just sort of …and bow your head. What about the customers, how they’re with these guests and his guest is not eating because the food’s been sent back to the kitchen. Come on, get a grip.” So, that kind of stuff, unfortunately, goes on in every kitchen, whether it’s on TV or off TV.
But it’s really weird, isn’t it, when you look at the broad sector of characters that enter this industry, the biggest frustrating thing for me is that there are so many divisions of teaching how to cook properly. That’s the reason why I bought my first …last year, so I could standardize the practice for a talented chef.
But the sad thing about it, there’s also so many that slip into the industry that don’t have qualifications and cooking is one of the very few jobs anywhere in the world that you don’t need a qualification to become a great chef. So that’s an issue.
