For 5 days, Berlin is international hub of fashion (Feature)

Berlin - At the show of fashion legend Boss, the usual glitz and glamour were replaced by barbecued sausages against an industrial backdrop, while style icon Rene Lezard hosted a 'home-made' breakfast in a Berlin neighbourhood on Friday. Through a series of innovative stunts, Berlin's Mercedez-Benz Fashion Week has carved out a niche on the international fashion circuit, and people are increasingly taking note. 'Berlin has fashion in the blood,' said style guru Suzy Menkes at the start of the five-day event, which she was attending for the first time. As the International Herald Tribune's (IHT) fashion editor, Menkes ranks alongside Anna Wintour of Vogue as one of the world's pre- eminent authorities on the hottest trends on and off the catwalk. Boss Orange presented casual creations in stylish denim, with a touch of Miami Beach, characterised by sequinned leggings and flowing dresses printed with pixellated palm tree patterns. The menswear range included washed out chinos and denim coats. 'Orange is the rough, unpolished side of Hugo Boss,' said chief executive Claus-Dietrich Lahrs. Sequins also hit the catwalk at Strenesse Blue, alongside three-quarter length jogging trousers and breezy silk dresses, inspired by a Wild West theme. Alongside global brands such as Escada and Wolfgang Joop's label Wunderkind, up-and-coming German labels also took centre stage. Lala Berlin, the brainchild of Iranian-born Leyla Piedayesh, presented her latest range of knitwear, in shades of beige and cream, alongside semi-transparent dresses in black and and delicate silk pastels. Black Coffee, a label by South African design duo Jacques van der Watt and Danica Lepen, introduced an exotic appeal with studded silk wraparound dresses in bold colours. The show's exuberance was offset by Argentinian label Ramirez, featuring classic understated elegance in black and grey. While Berlin doesn't have the paparazzi appeal of Paris or Milan, a handful of celebrities mingled amongst the fashionistas. British actress Sienna Miller and Hollywood star Diane Kruger were both spotted, while US singer-cum-designer Justin Timberlake presented his first collection at the neighbouring Bread & Butter trade fair. Bread & Butter, one of the world's leading 'street fashion' fairs, ran in parallel to the Fashion Week, offering retailers a chance to preview next year's looks and haggle over lucrative trade deals. Up to 120,000 trade visitors and 1,600 exhibitors were expected for the three-day event at Berlin's historic Tempelhof airport, which permanently closed to air traffic last November. Next summer's looks, on display in the former hangars, included pink shredded jeans and neon green basketball trainers, alongside denim overalls and baggy bloomers. The tattooed rockabilly style was predicted to remain popular, and its trademark skulls had even migrated onto dressing gowns. Meanwhile, German designer Anja Gockel introduced a celestial touch to the Fashion Week on Berlin's central Bebelplatz square. Her show, called 'The Real Life of Angels,' featured feminine designs with a hint of glamour. 'I'm referring to the real angels of every day, today's strong women,' Gockel said of her collection. US label Eastpak gave Berlin street kids a chance to confront their demons on the catwalk. Their show was put on by disadvantaged youths who had spent months training to model the brand's urban styles, featuring neon colours and bold prints. Most of all, the Berlin Fashion week showed that, when it comes to fashion, the rule is that there are no rules, a point made by Menkes when she praised US First Lady Michelle Obama for wearing what she wanted, not what etiquette dictated. Berlin's vibrant street culture, along with the city's flourishing boutique designers and a handful of well-funded fashion academies, makes the city ideal for creating and spotting new trends. During her first visit to Berlin in more than three years, the IHT's fashion editor said the 33 shows gracing the Fashion Week catwalks did not have the final say. 'I want to get into the streets. Fashion is not fashion until it's worn by real people,' Menkes said.