Taking a river cruise is the only way to see the Douro Valley

By Hilke Segbers Feb 7, 2012, 3:06 GMT

Porto, Portugal - It's possible to explore Portugal's Douro valley by car but a river cruise past farms and vineyards where the world famous port and sherry originate is the best way to experience the region's unique landscape.

A band in uniform and carrying wind instruments stands on the quay at Regua awaiting the arrival of the luxurious MS Douro Queen while the village has also organized a fireworks festival for the tourists aboard the cruise ship.

The friendliness of the locals, combined with the stunning beauty of the Douro Valley, which was designated a UNESCO Heritage Site a decade ago, has seen a marked increase in the number of tourists taking river cruises, such as the one offered on the Douro Queen, in recent years.

The cruise begins with a night on board the ship while it is anchored in the Atlantic port of Porto, situated in front of a stunning historical backdrop and alongside traditional wooden fishing boats. Local producers have erected huge wooden billboards advertising their vineyards on the old boats that used to transport the barrels of port to the famous cellars in Porto.

The banks of the Douro are heavily populated along this section of the river with numerous small factories and run-down industrial complexes where rusty cranes now stand idle.

Further along the Douro Valley, the grapes used for port as well as other high-quality wines ripen in the Portuguese summer sun. Five locks have to be passed along the ship's 211-kilometre trip, beginning with the Crestuma-Lever just a couple of hours outside Porto.

The Douro Queen's first port of call is Regua, close to the Mateus Palace, which was constructed in 1745 and is considered one of the finest country mansions in Portugal. For decades, Mateus was best known for its brand of medium-sweet rose wines but the local vineyards now also produce higher quality wines.

The number of vineyards increases as the ship makes its way towards Pinhao, where the rows of vines turn from green to red in colour as the season moves from summer to autumn. Pinhao is home to the world-famous Sandemann vineyard - or quinta as a vineyard is called in Portuguese - on a hill overlooking the Douro.

Visitors are greeted by an enthusiastic employee decked out in a Portuguese student's cape and wide-brimmed hat just like the famous figure on the company's bottle label. After sampling some port, the tourists board the bus for the journey along the windy road back down to the ship for some lunch.

'Wasn't that an enjoyable experience,' asks tour guide Cideila as the ship resumes its journey up the Douro past steep slate cliffs and toward the lock at Valeira. The river bends sharply and narrows to a width of just 30 metres after Valeria. The waters here vary between turquoise and bright emerald in colour depending on the colour of the sky above.

In autumn, there is a wonderful contrast between the colourful vine foliage and the yellow poplars along the riverbank but the river is at its most alluring in early summer when the temperature is pleasant but the summer sun hasn't yet scorched the meadows a straw colour.

One of the tour's highlights before the turning point at Barca d'Alva is a day-trip to the Spanish university city of Salamanca, with its historic Romanesque, Gothic, Moorish, Renaissance and Baroque monuments. The bus takes its passengers past an arid landscape made up of olive groves, gorse and holm oak. The small farmers in this area raise black Iberian pigs, which are then slaughtered to make the world famous Jamon de Pata Negra ham.

Once safely back on board the Douro Queen, the tourists are treated to a Portuguese barbecue washed down with some sangria and a young white wine known as 'vinho verde.' The ship has to turn at Barca d'Alva as the Spanish part of the River Douro isn't navigable for a cruise ship due to its narrow canyons and steep rapids.

Following a trip to the historical town of Castelo Rodrigo with its 16th century natural stone houses, the cruise ship begins its journey downstream back to Porto, stopping occasionally along the way. Once back in Porto, there is just enough time to explore the city's old town in search of some port or cheap shoes before beginning packing for the journey home.

All that remains is to figure out how many bottles of wine and port can be safely carried home before casting a finally glance at the rough Atlantic waves that contrast with the still waters of the Douro.