The snow shoe shuffle or hiking across the world's largest glacier

By Dirk Averesch Jan 31, 2012, 3:06 GMT

Riederalp, Switzerland - Time was when superstitious Valais folk were frightened of provoking the immense Aletsch Glacier, which they feared might overwhelm their homes and livelihoods, but nowadays it acts as a magnet for ski vacationers.

Most of these visitors just hurtle past the ancient stone-pine and larch forest on the edge of the icy highway without realising that they are missing out on one of the most spectacular snow-shoe treks in the entire Alps.

Waiting outside the station on the Riederalp (1,925 metres) on this particular fine morning is Edelbert Kummer, a man who knows this breathtaking area like the back of his hand. He has brought along an ample number of snow shoes and sticks for the occasion, the first snow hike of the season through the protected forest.

'Just call me Ed,' the bearded guide tells his charges just before they set off. 'The good thing is that there are no tracks in the snow whatsoever, it's all pure and undriven.' This sounds promising and what is more, the whole area is a world cultural heritage region.

The Aletsch glacier is the largest in the Alps, and a major part of the Jungfrau-Aletsch-Bietschhorn UNESCO World Heritage site. The huge river of ice stretches for 23 kilometres towards the mighty peaks of Eiger, Moench and Jungfrau. However, experts say it is shrinking by between 30 and 75 metres annually.

At the toe of the glacier lies native larch forest, home to some of Europe's most aged trees, including the Arven stone pines, some of which are reckoned to be between 700 and 800 years old. The species has been protected since 1933. The trees are heavily-laden with snow. The landscape here is not only untouched but overpoweringly beautiful. It is a gently rolling field, with undulations like marshmallows.

With every step, the snow shoe crunches underfoot and on the downward slopes the hikers start to slither and slip before tumbling down the hill. The 73-year-old guide shows how the descent should be properly performed, either in a controlled slide on an outstretched knee or by first chopping little steps in the ice with the aid of a pick.

The path passes the Hollow Valaiser, a burned-out pine whose fiery fate was sealed by a carelessly cast-away cigarette. The blackened tree silently admonishes hikers not to throw down their dog-ends. Even Pinnochio has a place here, or rather a tree in his likeness with a branch as his long nose. The roots of another stone pine have bored their way through ten metres of rock. 'These trees are real survivors,' comments Ed.

With each step the walkers sink into the newly fallen snow, sapping their strength. In a hollow protected from the wind by a rock face, Ed decides to give the group a breather. From the depths of his rucksack he produces a thermos flask and pours mulled wine into paper cups. Judging by the chunks of ice dangling from Ed's beard, it was high time for some hot liquid refreshment.

Ed leads hiking groups five times a week and is correspondingly fit. 'It lets you get away from it all and you rarely come across any other guests,' he said. There is more action on the 70 kilometres of winter trails and above all, in and around the 104 kilometres of pistes in the Aletsch arena.

The hike continues along the medial moraines. These consist of rock debris pushed down along the sides of the separate streams and are at least 11,000 years old. A plateau offers a commanding view into the Rhone Valley, the pyramidal Weisshorn mountain and the celebrated Matterhorn.

Once the Riederfurka, at 2,065 metres between Riederalp and the glacier, is reached, the lion's share of the four-hour hike is over and the historic Villa Cassel comes into view. The impressive former hotel was erected in Victorian style in 1901 and can number British statesman Winston Churchill among its illustrious guests.

Locals recall that he was so disturbed by the incessant jingle of cowbells during his stay that cowherds were given money by owner Ernest Cassel to stuff the bells with hay. The building serves today as the headquarters of the Pro Natura Centre Aletsch, which provides information and study courses about the local flora and fauna.