Where the water goddess dwells - Bali's Pura Ulun temple

By Katrin Figge Nov 29, 2011, 19:27 GMT

Bedugul, Bali - Bali is an island of deities, and one of the most striking buildings dedicated to their cult stands on the edge of a mountain lake: Pura Ulun, temple of Dewi Danu, the goddess of lakes and water.

This is just the spot for an extensive photo shoot, while visitors can also take in the nearby botanical gardens where yet more opulence awaits them.

The Balinese enjoy celebrating, and one of many temple festivities takes place at this picture-postcard house of worship on Lake Bratan.

On a typical day a group of women sit on the cool steps in the shadow of the temple, weaving baskets. These will be used to make offerings to the gods. Meanwhile, another group of ladies prepares the midday meal, while the men busy themselves putting up a rostrum for the forthcoming festivities.

Religious life on Bali is very lively. Everyday life for of the islanders is still dominated by tradition, most of which has its roots in Hinduism. The island is dotted with temples and shrines where an endless succession of ceremonies and festivals take place.

'Sometimes the preparations begin weeks before the actual event,' said travel guide Komang Ardana. 'Many Balinese people take an extra vacation in order to be able to take part. It's a completely normal thing here.'

Pura Ulun, which lies around two hours north of the main holiday region in Kuta, is certainly one of the most stunning and most-photographed of Bali's temples. It was built in the 17th century.

A tall, mature banyan tree greets visitors. 'People come here regularly,' said Komang. They bring sacrifices and pray for a fruitful harvest or else that their souls be cleansed.'

The temple complex consists of several shrines which take the form of tiered pagodas. The centrepieces of the complex are two shrines located on a small island in the lake and linked to the bank via a thin strip of land.

'Although the temple as a whole is dedicated to Dewi Danu, other deities have domiciliary rights,' said Komang and pointed to an 11-tiered shrine in the centre whose most sacred inner courtyard is off-limits to visitors. The nine-tiered temples nearby are dedicated to other gods.

Cameras whirr as guests take countless photographs. Tourists flock to the island of the gods, seemingly oblivious to the deadly terror attacks on Bali in 2002 and three years later which killed more than 220 people, including many foreign tourists.

The feature film 'Eat Pray Love,' which starred Julia Roberts, showcased Bali in all of its beauty and gave tourism a boost at the same time. The many hotels and villas in popular resorts such as Kuta, Legian and Seminyak are once again fully booked.

A surprising number of visitors find their way to the central highlands around Bedugul, which lies 1,500 metres high between two volcanoes. Yet the temple precincts retain an atmosphere of profound tranquility.

Visitors who move just a few steps away from the crowd hear nothing but the trickle of water. Next to the temple is a landing stage where rowing boats can be rented. Five Buddha statues in familiar sitting pose adorn the well-groomed park around the temple, although Pura Ulun is actually a Hindu site.

'For Hindus, Buddha is actually another manifestation of the god Visnu,' explained Komang. 'Over the years Hinduism has absorbed a number of Buddhist religious elements.'

Anyone who views the temple from afar will understand why an image of this holy landmark in a picturesque, hilly landscape adorns the back of Indonesia's 50,000 Rupiah bill.

While Pura Ulun is one of the main reasons for coming to Bedugul, there is much more to see in the area. One attraction are stalls at the traditional markets selling all manner of fruit and vegetables, and coffee plantations where most of the work is done by hand.

'Quite close by are the Eka Karya botanical gardens,' said Komang. 'They may not be as well known as Pura Ulun but they are perfect for those seeking a little peace and quiet.'

The huge tropical garden covers 157 hectares of land and is the largest in Indonesia. The cactus collection alone offers varieties from Africa, the Americas, Europe and Indonesia while in the orchid section, wild variants flourish among more than 4,000 different types.

'A lot of people come here just for a walk,' said Komang. 'It really is very peaceful, apart from the incessant twittering of the birds.' He is right about that. From here the party zone around Kuta and Legian seems a world away.