Belgian town of Saint-Hubert celebrates the hunt

By Bernd F Meier Oct 11, 2011, 3:06 GMT

Saint-Hubert, Belgium - The mixed oak and beech woodlands of the southern Belgian province of Luxembourg turn a deep, fiery red every autumn.

In these tranquil parts, roads meander through deep valleys, past burbling brooks, over fields dotted with quiet agricultural communities.

At the woods' middle rests the hamlet of Saint-Hubert, which boasts an imposing basilica dating back to the 16th century, as well as a Benedictine abbey.

The town, population 5,700, sits squarely in the middle of perfect hunting country. For this reason, its denizens have dubbed it 'Europe's centre of International Hunting and Nature.'

The town of Saint-Hubert and its patron saint, Hubertus, are inextricably linked.

According to medieval legend, Hubertus encountered a magnificent stag with a crucifix between its horns during a hunt in the Ardennes.

The experience so shook him that he converted on the spot to Christianity, and vowed to pursue ordainment as a priest.

Soon thereafter, Hubert became the 31st bishop of Tongeren and Maastricht, or the 'Apostle of the Ardennes.' His remains were interred at Saint-Hubert in 825 - though, oddly enough, his body went missing during the French Revolution.

Hubertus is the patron saint of hunters, and esteemed among the town's residents.

Pilgrims from the Rhine village of Dueren-Lendersdorf regularly make their way here on foot - a distance of 160 kilometres - to pay homage to Hubertus.

This religious trek through the Eifel and High fens has been a tradition since 1720.

The annual highlight of the Hubertus festivities takes place on November 3, when a mass is held in his name at the basilica.

Musical accompaniment for the religious service is provided by 14 members of the Royal-Foret Saint-Hubert ensemble, who play hunting horns during the service.

The town appeals to hunters and hikers alike.

A network of 30 hiking trails of 20 kilometers in length slink around Saint-Hubert and into its surrounding forest. Trail maps are available at the town's tourist office.

But during the hunting season, hikers should exercise caution.

'When the signs are up that the chase is in progress that particular stretch of woodland is a definite no-go area,' said Roger Deville who works at the tourist office in Saint-Hubert.

An excursion to the open-air museum of Fourneau Saint Michel might be a safer bet.

Dedicated to rural life, it showcases a collection of old buildings - manor houses, farmsteads, a school and sheds used to age tobacco.

After a day of trekking, hungry hikers feast on venison dishes prepared during autumn and winter months at more than 150 area restaurants.

Roasted stag and loins of deer are a speciality of Luc Dewalque. The chef, who has cooked for Belgian royalty, runs the Auberge du Sabotier in the village of Awenne, located nine kilometers north of Saint-Hubert.

'I'm expecting a stag and a wild boar this evening, freshly bagged by hunters,' Dewalque told would-be diners.

Other restaurants with gourmet game menus include: Au Sanglier des Ardennes in Oignies-en-Thierache; Le Moulin de Daverdisse in Daverdisse; Auberge du Grandgousier in Mirwart; and the Beau Sejour in Villers-sur-Lesse.

Situated in towns 60 kilometres or less away from Saint-Hubert, these fine eateries attract gourmets from northern France, the Netherlands, Wallonia (the Flemish-speaking part of Belgium), and Germany.

Hunters supply restaurants with stags, wild boar, deer and roebuck - and chefs create from their catch classic Ardennes dishes such as filet of fawn served with pumpkin puree or deer garnished with celeriac mousse, chestnuts and roast apples.