Turtles and tombs draw tourists to the Turkish town of Dalyan

By Carina Frey Aug 30, 2011, 3:06 GMT

Dalyan, Turkey - At first glance Dalyan might not seem to have a lot going for it. The town in south-western Turkey is not directly on the coast. Being close to the Mediterranean but without a seaside to boast of usually means no tourists either.

Fortunately, Dalyan has plenty to offer besides. There is the river Dolmus, some impressive rock-hewn ancient remains, and various excavation sites nearby.

More importantly, it is a nesting site for loggerhead sea turtles (Caretta caretta) who lay their eggs on the beaches nearby. This has proved to be a blessing in disguise for Dalyan since the reptile is considered to be an endangered species. Measures to protect its habitat include a ban on the building of intrusive hotel complexes although this has not deterred tourists entirely.

Dalyan manages to combine nature preservation and tourism. Plans to throw open the beaches to holiday guests the whole year around sparked international indignation and were eventually halted.

The female turtles come ashore and lay their eggs in the sand, which is cordoned off for the period. After incubating for between 50 and 80 days, the hatchlings crack the shells and dig through the sand to the surface.

The females later return to the same places in order to lay their next clutch of eggs, but they are deterred by human encroachment in the form of building activity or blaring music. Both hamper their ability to reproduce.

High above the river's sheer cliffs are the weatherbeaten Lycian tombs, cut from rock between the 6th and 4th century BC. The ruins resemble Greek temples and attract much interest.

Many former fishermen in Dalyan have swapped their traditional vessels for pleasure boats with comfortably-upholstered seats, barbecue grills and fridge boxes. They ferry the tourists upstream to Lake Koycegiz with a stopover at the Sultaniye hot springs. Others head straight for the Caretta beach, the actual name of which is Iztuzu.

For those who prefer public transport, boats ply the Dolmus regularly. A trip lasts around 45 minutes. The river winds its way languidly past various islets until it reaches the sea. With a little luck travellers can spot kingfishers and eagles. Marsh frogs and dice snakes abound.

Suddenly, amid all the rushes, straw-topped sun-shades come into view. They stand in serried rows next to the countless sunbeds, with the ocean beyond. It is busy here in the summer but in the pre-season period only a few bold bathers take a dip in the water.

The beach is off limits after dark and tourists seldom catch sight of loggerhead turtles. Their freshwater counterparts however are easily lured into captivity, a job taken over by locals.

The river is not only a waterway to the beach. It must be crossed by all who come from Dalyan with the intention of touring the ruins of the ancient city of Kaunos. There is no bridge but compact rowing boats are used for the crossing.

The remains of Kaunos, which was once a port, are a 30-minute walk from the river bank. What is left is certainly worth seeing but the site cannot compete in stature with other antique excavation sites along the Lycian coast.