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Tradition dominates picturesque Provence village of Saignon

By Daniela David Aug 2, 2011, 2:06 GMT

Saignon, France - Visitors to the Vaucluse in southern France generally stay in the best-known places such as Bonnieux, Gordes or Lourmarin.

The village of Saignon is slightly off the beaten track for most tourists despite being in the same area and it should be considered a real insider tip. The idyllic mountain village barely gets a mention in travel guides but is an enjoyable place to stay.

The village houses are stacked up tightly against each other, perched on a massive rock like an eagle's nest on a rocky crag. Saignon sits on a prominent point over a valley in the Luberon National Park in the heart of Provence, and is ochre-coloured in the warm morning light.

Just 50 kilometres away, tourists teem through the streets of Avignon and Aix-en-Provence but here everything proceeds at a much more sedate pace.

Gerhard Rose walks by the two plane trees that mark the entrance to the village. The 45-year-old German has lived in Saignon since 2006, together with his French wife where they run a guesthouse in a centuries-old building that once served as a rectory.

'I immediately fell in love with Saignon, the area and the region's authentic lifestyle,' explains the former business consultant.

A quick stroll around the almost-perfectly preserved village shows why Rose was smitten by Saignon, a small, peaceful and serene village that is easily explored on foot. A stroll through the narrow streets reveals a 12th century Romanesque church, fountains and ancient houses.

People sit around the fountain in the central Place de la Fontaine, sipping coffee in the sun, including American painter Andrew Petrov, who moved to Saignon in 1999 and now offers painting courses.

'It was a lifelong dream for many of my students to follow in the footsteps of the impressionists and sit in the middle of a poppy field in Provence and paint,' he explains.

The cliffs are easily accessible, offering panoramic views from the summit. On a clear day, Mont Ventoux, the Alps of High Provence and even Avignon are visible. Whether it's for painting, photography or simply to enjoy the view, the climb up the Le Rocher outcrop in Saignon is well worth the effort.

Saignon is one of the oldest villages in France and the area has been settled since pre-historic times. The Romans also made their way here and the village even had a city charter until the French Revolution.

The name Saignon most likely has its origins in the Latin word signum, meaning signal, and probably refers to the strategically well positioned rocky outcrops, which were used for signalling fires.

Andrew Goldsby has opened a small restaurant in the village called La petite cave where the British chef cooks each evening. 'Guests travel to Saignon simply to have a good meal,' he says.

The thriving Saignon of today is a far cry from 50 years ago when the village was home to less than 400 residents. Saignon was then discovered by hippies and the population has since risen to over 1,000 people.



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