Florence can be enchanting away from the madding crowds

By Aliki Nassoufis Jul 26, 2011, 3:06 GMT

Florence, Italy - The queue in front of the Uffizi art gallery is even longer than usual, while the area around the Duomo is extremely crowded with tourists taking in the sights.

Florence is crammed full of tourists even in the off-season, with tourists tripping over themselves along the route between the Duomo, Uffizi and Ponte Vecchio.

But the capital of Tuscany has much more to offer than just the world famous sights in the old town. The city has a much quieter side just a few streets away where the pace is slower and everything a little greener.

The best way to start the day is with a late breakfast, just after 10 in the morning, when Florentines pour out of their offices for a short break in one of the many cafes, such as Sieni near the market hall.

They normally order an espresso at the wooden counter and a sweet bread roll, while also taking the opportunity to wonder at the beautiful home-made cakes on display in the glass vitrine near the door, including zuccotto cakes, meringues, frittelle and the famous Torta della Nonna, which was reputedly invented here.

The crowded city centre is best avoided by taking the number 13 bus, which starts at the main train station near Sieni and passes through typical Florentine residential areas.

Compared to the activity around the Duomo, where countless stall-holders look to sell their wares to the masses of tourists, these residential quarters of the city appear almost deserted.

The bus route ends at the Piazzale Michelangelo on the other side of the river Arno. The Piazzale is situated on a small hill and offers fantastic views of the city, with the huge Duomo and Ponte Vecchio clearly visible in all their majesty.

Narrow streets lead off the Piazzale Michelangelo in the direction of Ponte Vecchio, where it is possible to turn off towards the Palazzo Pitti and enjoy the Giardino di Boboli before the atmosphere becomes hectic once again.

The Giardino di Boboli is a small garden that, over time, has grown into an artwork in itself. A sea of roses grows beside giant cypress pines, interspersed with sculptures and streams. The ancient trees offer welcome shade in summer and locals can be found here in comfortably manageable numbers.

The Piazza Santo Spirito is a favoured meeting point for young and old alike with its bars and restaurants full from the early evening. Some drink a nightcap, while others give themselves strength with a focaccia sandwich or a pizza.

Afterwards, the meal is rounded off by dunking some hard almond biscuits known as cantuccini biscotti in a glass of cold, sweet dessert wine.

Things quieten down in the old city as the evening draws in, making it worthwhile to make a return to the northern bank of the Arno for a stroll and some shopping, stopping on the way in the Gelateria Santa Trinita at the Santa Trinita bridge for an ice cream.

The Vecchio bridge and its shops are a more pleasant experience while the view of the Duomo can be enjoyed with noticeably less competition than earlier in the day.