Travel Features

Discover Germany's green jungle just south of Berlin

By Aliki Nassoufis Aug 31, 2010, 10:50 GMT

Luebbenau, Germany - Dragonflies whirr above the watercourse as the boat glides past lush green bushes. Welcome to the watery world of the Spree Forest, just an hour by car from the German capital, yet a world away.

This sparsely populated area is divided up by a remarkable latticework of irrigation channels known as 'Fliese' which stretch for around 1,300 kilometres. For the past 20 years this unusual landscape has also been designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.

Most visitors explore this delicate labyrinth, sometimes referred to as a 'rural Venice,' in one of the traditional punts used hereabouts or from a paddle boat. There is plenty of wildlife to be seen on the way, with close-up views of otters, cranes and storks.

One of the most interesting waterborne tours offered from the Spree Forest moorings at Luebbenau is a trip to the centre of this dense greenery where the broadleafed vegetation is at its thickest.

But back to the boat: The Spree Forest equivalent of the Venice punter propels the punt forward in time-honoured fashion using a long pole made of ash. The punter stands at the stern of the boat, letting the pole slide into the water before he pulls it up again gently in preparation for the next pushing stroke.

The trip starts with a good-humoured warning. 'Mind your arms and legs when we pass under the bridges,' the punter tells his passengers. 'We don't carry spare parts on board!'

The Spree Forest covers more than 48,000 hectares and dates back to the Ice Age. When the glaciers retreated they left behind a kind of inland delta with sandy islets where farmsteads soon became established.

The River Spree was split into hundreds of rivulets creating a landscape which evolved over the centuries into fields, meadows, copses and woodland. Much of the territory is protected by nature laws but some 250 kilometres of waterway are open to visitors.

The punt passes broad expanses of greenery and picturesque small villages where the houses are made of wood, its near silent progress emphasising the tranquility of the surroundings.

It is worth noting though than the organised trips are confined to pre-arranged routes in certain popular sections of the Spree Forest and these usually terminate at one of the tourist restaurants which dot the region.

Naturally, the waterways can get busy in the summertime and for those who prefer to strike out their own and keep fit at the same time there are plenty of canoes and other paddlecraft for hire.

The Spree Forest punts have been in use for hundreds of years and are not merely decorative. Local people rely on these boats for essential services since some of the remoter parts can only be reached via the water.

The punts are used to collect household refuse and even the police have their own punt. Letters come by punt too, one painted in the bright yellow livery of the German Postal Service.

The fame of Spree Forest cuisine and produce has also spread far and wide and the region is renowned for its delicious gherkins. These can be eaten fresh or are sold in jars which make a excellent souvenir to take home.



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