Travel Features

Calanques around Marseille offer steep cliffs and turquoise seas

By Ulrike Koltermann Aug 24, 2010, 12:23 GMT

Marseille, France - The square in front of the Notre Dame de la Garde Cathedral offers superb views over the harbour of Marseille with its moored yachts and in the distance the Frioul archipelago, the location of Chateau d'If.

Further east towards Cassis, a long, thin peninsula stretches out into the Mediterranean towards a small island with grey cliffs and dark green vegetation.

This rugged terrain, known as the Massif des Calanques, is one of France's great natural beauty areas and spans approximately 20 kilometres in length and 4 km in width along the coast.

Perfect for weekend rambling, environmentalists are now working to have it declared a nature protection area.

The Massif des Calanques is officially part of the Marseille metropolitan area but once the city's bay has been left behind, the feeling is distinctly rural.

The GR 98-51 trail follows the coastline between Marseille and Cassis and is the most heavily travelled and easiest to navigate. It is designed for walking, not technical climbing, allowing hikers the chance to take in the breathtaking scenery.

A light sea breeze makes the walk even more enjoyable and after just half an hour, the route opens up to offer views of the rugged coastline. Marseille can still be seen but the city's influence diminishes as the cliff trail winds east.

The Calanques (from the Corsican word meaning 'inlet') were formed by rivers flowing into the sea, which were later submerged by the rising level of the Mediterranean. Many of the long narrow inlets are now home to tiny harbours or beaches with access to clear blue-green waters.

The ample sunshine, combined with sea winds and dry conditions, ensures a wide diversity of wildlife with spring and late summer the best times to visit the area as some trails are closed due to fire hazard in July, August and part of September.

The Calanque de Sormiou is one of the main Calanques and is famous for its climbing spots while the day's trek ends at Morgiou, with its turquoise waters and little chalets perched on the rocks.

Formerly a fishing port, the Calanque de Morgiou is famous for the Cosquer cave, an underwater grotto containing numerous ancient cave drawings.

There is no cheap accommodation available in Sormiou so a bus trip from Luminy University back to Marseille is the recommended option.

Calanque de Port-Miou is the next port of call with its long and narrow peninsula serving as a perfect marina for nearby Cassis. The final few hundred metres to Cassis bring the hiker on to a main road which leads down to a small harbour.

In the evening, all that remains is a visit to one of the many cafes that line the harbour promenade in Cassis where a typical Marseille aperitif of peanuts and olives can be enjoyed.



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