Hiking on Madeira island, where Nature reigns supreme

By Martin Oversohl Jul 27, 2010, 14:38 GMT

Funchal, Madeira - The narrow path through the green heartland of Madeira leads into a lush green jungle.

Overflowing vines of flowers, ferns and lichens trigger images of a fairy-tale world, streams cascade down the sides of rocky cliffs, giant trees stretch their gnarled branches above the trail of the Portuguese island of Madeira.

But in this jungle nobody becomes lost, as there are trail markers pointing the way to guide each person to his destination. The winding path through the Rabacal valley goes alongside a levada, a narrow, concrete mini-canal which is typical for this volcanic island in the Atlantic Ocean some 700 kilometres west of the coast of Morocco.

Like stony arteries these artificial water courses criss-cross the island. They supply the dry areas of the south with rainwater which falls in the northern region. Downpours belong to a hike on the 'island of eternal springtime' as much as the roaring waterfalls, mild winds and tasty fish.

Madeira's way of walking resembles a line of geese. The paths alongside the canals are usually too narrow to permit people to walk next to each other. But they are long: the roughly one-metre wide and half a metre high levadas add up to some 2,000 kilometres in length, not including the countless trails branching off.

Proceeding past blossoming lilies, laurels and sweet-smelling eucalyptus trees, the canal trails lead to the remotest parts of Madeira. Often they are level, but dizzying structures on the slopes are also no rarity, as are the kilometres-long tunnels. So a flashlight also belongs in your backpack.

And where it is too narrow for one path along the canal and where it is slippery, or where as is frequently the case the safety railings along the steep passages are missing, then sometimes there is only one thing left to do - hop up onto the levada wall. Then you continue on. But those who suffer from a fear of heights should avoid the particularly exposed levada routes.

Altitude differences scarcely need to be overcome during a hike. Starting with the construction of the first levadas in the 15th century and continuing on to the most recent ones in the 20th century, a gradient of just 1 per cent must be maintained. This assures that the water does not rush down uncontrollably, but rather must flow gently - all the natural conditions notwithstanding.

Madeira has its fill of slopes and mountains, cliffs and gorges, while flat areas are a rarity. Seen from above, the island looks like a crumpled-up piece of paper. The biggest and most spectacular attraction of this island is Nature itself. Two-thirds of Madeira is under natural protection law, and large areas are purely for hiking - every season of the year. Tourists rarely come to Madeira for its culture or architecture.

Still, most vacationers seek their lodgings mainly in the port town of Funchal, which is totally devoted to tourism - and not just since a few years ago. Europe's prominent citizens, including 19th-century Austrian Empress 'Sisi,' had made the island their winter domicile in previous centuries. Later on, it would be burned-out artists, politicians, and the jet set coming to Madeira.

For hikers, a day visit to Funchal is completely adequate. Even this trip can be made in connection with a levada hike. One of the most scenic routes leads up to the church of the wealthy suburb Monte on the upper edge of town. There, tourists can sit in wicker chairs and then go riding on sleds with wooden runners. Does this sound absurd? Well, once upon a time such sleds were the normal means of public transportation. The sleds are piloted by two 'carreiros,' dressed in traditional white costumes, who run next to the sleds and jump on and off as they slide down the paved street.

While the island pulsates in Funchal, it is the wildly romantic and thinly-populated north-eastern part of Madeira with a breathtaking landscape of steep cliffs which lures visitors. Among the terraces which are no longer under cultivation, a few houses cling to the steep slopes like eagles' nests. The small gardens resemble the rice terraces one sees in Asia. Tiny fields cover every square metre, even the flat spaces bordering the small bays.

The north, with its adventurous coastal roads, offers fantastic areas for hiking. Here, Nature is untamed. Highlights include the huge and nearly devoid of human habitation UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site 'Laurisilva' or laurel forest, located above the village of Santana, as well as a trek up to the top of Madeira's mountain world, the 1,862-metre Pico Ruivo.

The south-western part of the island is, by contrast, quiet and sunny. The region between Calheta and Reibera Brava is ideal for recuperation. Because of the lengthy time required to get there, =however, it is less attractive for hiking.

By contrast to the raw north-western area, the climate in the south-west is pleasantly mild. Calheta has a small sandy beach - the only one on the entire island - which was artificially created with sand brought in from the Portuguese mainland.

Information: www.visitportugal.com