Take the Mullerthal Trail for a walk on Luxembourg's wild side

By Bernd F. Meier Jul 13, 2010, 12:27 GMT

Echternach, Luxembourg - Maybe we had just a little too much for breakfast this morning? The gap between the rocks in the Goldfralay massif is as thin as a sheet. The rock walls tower 20 metres high and the only way forward is to take a deep breath and slip through to the other side in single file.

The gorge is soon passed by these walkers and Luxembourg's most spectacular trail leads on up a flight of roughly-hewn steps to the rocky plateau above.

Taking the Mullerthal Trail amid the verdant green of eastern Luxembourg has a quality of adventure to it. 'It's all the details that make this region unique,' said Susanne Leder of the Mullerthal project group.

The Miller's path, which takes its name from the many watermills which once dotted the route, leads hikers over a distance of 110 kilometres and consists of three sections.

Divided up into such chunks of between 33 and 40 kilometres the trails are ideal for trips lasting up to two days. The entire route is clearly marked with signs bearing a red letter 'M' and the hikes are classified as easy, moderate or strenuous.

The path wends its way for 12 kilometres between the ancient mills at Consdorf and Heringen, offering a fine insight into the kind of variety this landscape has to offer. The path passes both the sheer rock faces at Goldfralay and the impressive Eulenberg rock formation.

Just before the home leg local resident Robi Baden is often on hand to meet up with hikers and show them around the Heringer watermill. Robi is a cabinet maker by trade and works in Waldbillig.

Robi has put a great deal of effort into bringing what used to be the most important mill in the area back from the brink of destruction and he has transformed the 17th century building into an architectural gem.

In his spare time he enjoys recreating the miller's trade and shows visitors how loaves were once baked in the stone ovens.

The landscape hereabouts is known as Little Switzerland although it is hardly alpine. The name was given by tourists from the Netherlands who were the first to discover the area. They were impressed by the mighty rocks which reminded them of the Swiss Alps. 'The first hotels and pensions opened their doors in the 19th century,' said Marianne Origer of the local tourist association.

A number of hiking routes came into being but it was the Mullerthal which linked up the paths to create a proper network.

One of the routes leads to the picturesque ruins of Beaufort Castle which are well worth viewing at any time. The castle dates back to around 1150 and a tour of its chambers reveals a chilling medieval torture chamber with some reconstructed instruments of torment.

The grand little town of Echternach in the valley of the River Sauer, which now forms the border between Luxembourg and Germany, is another attractive destination. This community of 5,500 souls can trace its origins back to Roman times. 'The first Roman villa was built around 65 years AD,' said city guide Alain Muller during a tour of the streets.

Echternach's boom period was unleashed by the foundation of a Benedictine abbey in 698 by an English monk by the name of Willibrord who was believed to have come from Yorkshire. The Romanesque basilica with its symmetrical towers was added in the 11th century, said Muller.