Experience old Europe with a tour of Austria's medieval fortresses

By Horst Heinz Grimm Jun 8, 2010, 11:33 GMT

Graz, Austria - Aficionados of the Middle Ages and the chivalry of times gone by are highly recommended to make their way to southern and eastern Austria.

Here in the federal states of Burgenland and Styria can be found some perfectly maintained centuries-old fortresses steeped in history where once Christian Europe faced the advancing forces of Islam.

Today many of the castles once occupied by knights and Crusaders are now populated by tourists who flock here from spring to late autumn.

One particular point of interest is Forchtenstein Castle in northern Burgenland near the Hungarian border, which over the centuries repelled all attacks and has been in the continuous possession of the House of Esterhazy since 1622, when Nikolaus Esterhazy, founder of the western Hungarian Esterhazy line, received the castle from Emperor Ferdinand II.

'The arsenal is home to the largest private weapons collection in Europe,' explains castle spokeswoman Edeltraud Werschlein.

Perched on top of a volcanic mountain is Guessing Castle, which was built in 1157 and is the oldest castle in Burgenland and a regional landmark.

Although over 850 years old, the fortress was completely renovated at the end of the last century and now offers theatre performances, concerts and readings in the castle grounds during the summer months.

The clock tower offers views deep into Hungary while a museum provides information on the violent history of the area. The castle's restaurant serves up food and drink in an atmosphere reminiscent of the Middle Ages while some rooms are also available to be reserved for private functions.

For those looking for something slightly different, every summer Lockenhaus Castle is home to an international music festival held under the direction of violinist Gideon Kremer.

'The castle's main knights' hall provides seating for 600 people,' says historian Peter Hasenstaetter, who is more interested in Lockenhaus's past than its present.

'It seems Lockenhaus was a fortress of the Knights of Templar,' he says.

At least that's the view of Austrian author Gerhard Volfing, who claims to have collected enough evidence in his book 'Auf den Spuren der Templer in Oesterreich' (On the trail of the Templars in Austria) to substantiate his assertion.

A line of former defensive fortresses are strewn like a chain from north to south along Austria's eastern border and, according to historians, the area provides one of the highest concentration of castles in Europe.

Most castles now play an important role for tourism in Austria although some are still in private hands.

'We get around 90,000 visitors a year to Forchtenstein Castle,' says Werschlein.

There is also another use for these remnants of more warlike times. For example, the Burg Schlaining fortress near Oberwart, which dates back to the 13th century and once allowed knights to control important trade routes, is now home to Austria's Student Centre for Peace and Conflict Resolution.

The fortress is also open to visitors and has a peace museum.

East of Graz close to the border with Hungary and Slovenia, the 12th century Riegersburg stands guard over the gentle valleys, the green forests and the splendid vineyards of south-east Styria.

This impregnable 'fortress of Christianity,' as it was once known, is an architectural jewel of the Middle Ages and Turkish armies laid siege to it during their military push west.

'However, the fortress never fell,' says castle official Christian Redl.

The castle entrance is reached via a long, steep footpath. Three kilometres of defence walls with loopholes, seven archways and eleven bastions are evidence of the castle's impregnability.

Until seven years ago many gave up before reaching the castle gates but since 2003 a new cableway on the north side of the castle now leads visitors up to the fortress in just 90 seconds.

A witch museum reminds tourists of one of Europe's darkest chapters. Between 1546 and 1746, over 800 men and women were charged with witchcraft in Styria with courts sentencing 300 to death, mostly by being burnt at the stake.

A fortress tour is an ideal holiday for those travelling by car. The internet provides all the dates for concerts, jousting competitions and medieval banquets. Vienna or Graz make a perfect base for day trips or for round trips of several days.

If possible, tourists should consider staying overnight in a fortress. Some castles offer room and board while the fortress in Bergstein im Burgenland specialises in providing a romantic experience, complete with antique furniture and tile ovens.

There are no televisions or telephones although the bathrooms have been upgraded to modern standards. Dinner is served in the historic knights' hall by candlelight in front of a roaring fire.