Haiti looks to attract tourists back following earthquake

By Franz Smets May 25, 2010, 15:11 GMT

Cap-Haitien, Haiti - January's massive earthquake left much of Haiti in ruins. But reconstruction efforts are moving apace in the Caribbean nation with income from tourism expected to be a key driver in any recovery.

Cap-Haitien, on the north coast of Haiti, and Jacmel in the south are two cities that hope holidaymakers can be attracted despite the chronic absence of infrastructure in the country.

The Citadelle Laferriere, a massive stone fortress well stocked with cannons and built on the 910-metre-high summit of Bonnet a L'Eveque, can be seen from miles around Cap-Haitien.

Hundreds of cannons are directed toward the sea where, in times gone by, they were meant to prevent the return of the French colonialists following the country's independence revolution in 1804. The French never returned, so the ornate weapons were never fired in anger.

On weekends, hundreds of locals who are, for the most part, descended from African slaves make the steep trek to the nearby ruins of the Sans-Souci Palace, which was wrecked by an earthquake in 1842. Many have picnics and enjoy the panoramic views of the surrounding mango forests and banana and sugarcane plantations.

The fortress and the palace ruins were constructed during the reign of the self-proclaimed King Henri Christophe, who ascended to power in 1807. They were listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 1982.

Former US president and UN Coordinator for Haiti Bill Clinton visited here recently, together with several American companies in an effort to kick-start some tourism projects.

It is hoped tourism can be the catalyst for the development of the whole of northern Haiti, which was spared the devastation wreaked upon the capital, Port-au-Prince, in January's earthquake.

More and more people are making their way here to see what opportunities are available. But, at the moment, there is a shortage of almost everything. The road to Port-au-Prince is barely passable for long stretches, while certain sections have been washed away, requiring diversions over mountains or via riverbeds.

There are a few small hotels in Cap-Haitien, although their best days are far behind them, while one riverside street has a clutch of restaurants. Harbour facilities are non-existent, not least because of the numerous slums.

Only around Labadee beach, where passing cruise ships dock, is there any kind of tourist infrastructure.

'We want to do more and bring the passengers up to the fortress,' says Boder Schuett, a representative for the Royal Caribbean cruise- liner company.

The border to the Dominican Republic is only 40 minutes' drive away, thanks to a modern road to Cap-Haitien financed by the European Union. It is probably one of the only roads in Haiti with displayed speed limits and street signs warning against oncoming traffic.

Compared to the journey north from Port-au-Prince, the road south to Jacmel is of good quality, although landslides caused by the earthquake still hamper any journey. Jacmel and many of its French colonial-style houses were badly damaged in the quake. But it is still hoped the city can become a tourism success story.

'Jacmel can become a picture-book French town in the Caribbean,' believes Charles Castel, governor of the Bank of the Republic of Haiti. 'We want to revive tourism here.'

People are slowly beginning to recover from January's catastrophe, with many schools, which have been erected out of wood on open ground at the edge of the town, once again accepting students and holding classes.

Small hotels and fish restaurants are also opening up along the beautiful beaches to the west and east of Jacmel.

The heavily-damaged beach promenade in the town was also home to Thomas Oriental's mask shop, which saw a side wall and sections of its roof collapse during the quake. Now less than six months later, young artists are painting once again, as well as fixing the damaged masks.

However, Haitians aren't overly optimistic that tourists will start flocking to their country.

'I need a loan just to be able to keep my business open,' Oriental said. There is no chance of any state agency coming to his aid. 'They are victims of the quake themselves,' he pointed out.