Hiking across the Alps - one of the last great European adventures

By Andrea Loebbecke May 4, 2010, 18:12 GMT

Bad Toelz, Germany/Belluno, Italy - Trekking across the Alps can certainly seem like a daunting prospect.

On paper, crossing the great mountain range from north to south is one of Europe's most challenging trails. The journey covers 400 kilometres, with differences in altitude of up to 20,000 metres.

That's the theory: Once the first ascents have been mastered, hikers on the trip from Germany in the north to Italy in the south soon get into their stride and the smiles on their faces become broader as they marvel at their own stamina and the awe-inspiring views.

Unless the weather turns nasty and barring health problems, an Alpine crossing can be easily accomplished in three weeks, starting from the Bavarian capital Munich.

Those with more time to spare can take a deep breath in Belluno and carry on another five stages until they find themselves in St Mark's Square in Venice.

Many trails lead across the massive range, but one of the classics is the Munich-Venice Dream Path. This route was devised more than 30 years ago by veteran hiker Ludwig Grassler. Although not an official path, it enjoys much popularity - so much so that, once a year on August 8, 'Venice-bound wanderers' meet at Munich's Marien Square to tackle the long trek.

More ambitious walkers are advised to skip the initial flat sections and set off from Bad Toelz. The stage from the Benediktenwand to the cabin Tuzinger Huette gives hikers a chance to see whether their level of fitness is sufficient for the rest of the trip.

After Vorderriss, the path leads up to the Karwendelhaus, a restaurant and resting place which is often very busy during the season, despite being perched 1,800 metres aloft in the Alps.

It makes sense to reserve accommodation here as early as possible, especially for hikers who have an aversion to sleeping in large dormitories. Most of the Alpine chalets offer six, four or two bed- arrangements. The more private rooms cost a few euros more, but are worth the expense.

From the Karwendelhaus, the route continues to the Birkkarhuettl hostel, which lies beneath the tallest mountain of the range in this vicinity, the Birkarspitze, standing 2,747 metres tall. The descent to the Hinterau Valley is steep and slippery, with some parts guarded by wire fences.

This route should only be tackled in a group and when the weather is favourable. After the Alpine pastures of the Zillertal, the path winds up its way to the Tuxerjoch mountain pass. This is high Alpine territory and there are still a few tricky passages up ahead.

Anyone who has made it this far can easily cope with the terrain ahead. Those of a nervous disposition can always take a short cut by bus, although they will miss out on the magnificent view of Lake Schlegeis and its sparking turquoise waters.

Soon the hikers will have reached the South Tyrol region of Italy. A rock in the Passo di Vizze marks the border, but walkers are still a long ways away from Belluno or Venice.

By far the most impressive section of the route lies ahead. It is the trek though the Dolomite Mountains, a range of immense peaks with majestic walls of bare rock.

This part of the Alpine crossing is best tackled between August and September, when the snow has vanished from the higher reaches. A trip should be organized to coincide with the opening times of the Italian chalets, some of which close their doors to guests after only a brief summer season. Others shut for renovation or for lack of a guardian.

The Sella Plateau atop the huge fortress of the Sella Group presents the viewer with an eerie, desert-like landscape. After a night spent at the Boe-Huette cabin (2,900 metres), there is the choice for high-achievers to press on a further 300 metres upward to the spectacular 'Capanna-Fassa-Refugio' hostel.

This tiny lodge clings perilously to the flanks of Piz Boe. When the weather is fine, the panoramic view stretches to the peak of Marmolada (3,340 metres).

The next stages of the route take walkers around this glacier- capped giant. The altitude differences here are not extreme, but tramping past the stone ramparts through pasture and stunted mountain pine forests under the rays of a strong sun can be exhausting. After the ascent to the Pan deFontana cabin, the most strenuous part of the hike is all but over.

The walkers are only a day away from Belluno now and it is time to say goodbye to the fascinating Alpine landscape. They also take their leave of the now familiar rhythm of brief breakfasts followed by hours of walking, huge quantities of fresh air, cosy evenings spent in log cabins and tranquil nights of deep sleep.

Some hikers tackle an Alpine crossing with a rucksack containing up to 20 kilograms of equipment, but this is not advisable. Between 8 and 10 kilogramss of gear should suffice for all the essentials needed on a trip of this nature.

Walkers should always take along plenty of water along with a good supply of muesli bars and fruit: the ideal en-route snacks. Overcoming gravity on this trek is hard enough without being weighed down by unnecessary kilograms.