Travel Features

A baroque city between the vineyards: Germany's Wuerzburg

By Angelika Roepcke Apr 27, 2010, 15:12 GMT

Wuerzburg, Germany - Southern Germany's Wuerzburg is worth more than just a brief visit.

The city of 130,000 on the Main River was virtually destroyed towards the end of World War II. The bombing raids of March 16, 1945 almost levelled the city into a pile of ruins and have not been forgotten.

But the traces of the war are no longer to be seen. The residents rolled up their sleeves and got to work rebuilding - and a stroll through the old historic city centre provides tourists with an impression of just how much effort went into it in the post-war period.

Above all, the Residenz, the large palace once built for the prince-bishops, is a first-class proof. UNESCO in 1981 declared the palace, with its some 340 rooms, as a world cultural heritage site.

In the meantime, it has long since become a magnet for tourists in the region. Badly damaged by the bombing raids, it is one of Europe's most important baroque palaces. More than 300,000 people visit it each year.

The palace is regarded as the life's work of Balthasar Neumann, an architectural genius of the 18th century who spent decades working for Wuerzburg clients and who also died in the city. People visiting the Residenz feel as if they have been transported back in time to a period of royal lustre: the broad stairway offers an outstanding view of the 677 square-metre ceiling fresco.

Also impressive are the lavish rococo facade of the finely designed falconry house directly located on the city's market square, or the Gothic-style St Mary's Chapel, containing sandstone figurines carved by the famous sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider.

In Wuerzburg, the distances are short. A tourist can quickly go from one attraction to the other, such as the Romanesque St Kilian's Cathedral with its museum, to the Town Hall. After a visit there to the atmosphere-laden Wenzelsaal banquet hall, the tour continues on to the Old Bridge across the Main and from there to the Marienberg fortress.

This landmark towers above the rooftops of the city and visitors should not refrain from making the 20-minute trek up to it. In a pinch, there is also a shuttle bus running between the Residenz and the fortress. Visitors should also take in the nearby twin-spired Kaeppele church. The stations of the cross path going up or down is also worth the effort.

The Baroque-style city, with its university founded in 1402, is spoiled by a pleasant climate thanks to its river basin setting.

In summer, the lush-green Silvaner, Riesling and Domina grapes adorn the vineyard slopes, which can be explored on foot. After a one to two-hour tour of the Wuerzburger Stein vineyard, there is some wine-tasting in store at one of the city's three traditional wineries - the Buergerspital, Juliusspiel or the Stattlicher Hofkeller.

These historic sites, with their magnificent architecture and Germany's most important cellars filled with casks of wine, are located directly in the old city centre and can't be missed.

But those who prefer beer with the hearty local Franconian cuisine can spend an atmospheric evening in the Alter Kranen (old crane) tavern on the banks of the Main River with its view of the river and meadows and of the mighty fortress looming above the city.

This summer, a doomsday mood will descend on Wuerzburg. Not because the Bocksbeutel wine growing on the city's sloping vineyards will have run out, but because, under an initiative of the bishopric, creative artists are turning their focus to all possible threats to humankind.

Under the series called 'Endspiel: Wuerzburger Apokalypse 2010' (End Game: Wuerzburg Apocalypse 2010) visitors will be offered some 80 art, theatre, musical and educational events running through to November.



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