A journey into tranquillity - hiking in the Polar Circle

By Karin Schumann Apr 20, 2010, 15:17 GMT

Oslo - Hill walkers rest on reindeer skins beside the log fire like old, lazy Vikings; sipping strong coffee and gazing into the wide, quiet distance.

Tare Steiro has a kettle and instant coffee powder ready at moments like these when he is in the Arctic wilderness. The guide is always prepared for any eventuality. A walk with Tare is the best way to find out about Arctic geology and its flora and fauna, from glaciers, waterfalls and caves to mushrooms and berries.

The Polar Circle as marked on maps is a geographic and climatic border between the moderately cool region of the northern hemisphere and the Arctic zone but for the people who live here it is the measure of all things. The line at 66 degrees and 34 minutes north defines life for the people here and is the landmark between light and darkness. In winter, the sun does not rise above the horizon and in summer it never sets.

For Tare and his family that means it is all the more important to enjoy the summer months as much as they can and to get out into nature as often as possible. Luckily, there is plenty of nature to explore along the Norwegian-Swedish frontier. Nature begins just in front of Mo i Rana, the largest city in northern Norway. It is an area of foaming rivers, waterfalls, pools and lakes - all of them ideal for swimming or fishing in, says Tare.

Tare says it is impossible to get lost in the region whether you are observing the strong tidal current at Saltstraumen south of the city of Bodo or exploring Norway's second largest glacier, Svartisen. All of the walking paths have red markers.

With a view to underscoring just how easy it is to walk here, Tare suggests going for a trek in Saltfjellet-Svartisen National Park, 30 kilometres north of Mo i Rana. The area has sparse birch forests and thick blueberry bushes growing beside crystal clear pools of water and splashing waterfalls.

Along the way walkers can rest in a traditional hut with grass roofs, open fires, wooden beds and outdoor toilets. In the past the huts were used by farmers to watch over their animals. Today, walkers can stay overnight in the huts, some of which are over 100 years old and are owned by Norway's walking association. Tare is cooking a hearty meal of reindeer goulash for his guests at Bredek hut.

There are no customs or passport controls on the way into Sweden and the frontier has no visible markings. After a while red-striped farmhouses appear between the mountains, which are not so bare as in Norway. Hemavan, the first town beyond the border, is a bustling holiday resort with beds for 2,000 guests and just 300 residents.

Everywhere in the town are blue and white signs marking walking routes, viewing points and lakes. The Naturum is a visitor centre with information on Arctic plants and animals, and thanks to its shiny golden dome, it is visible from far away. Hemavan is also the starting point for Sweden's 500-kilometre-long Kungsleden trail, or Royal Way. It leads walkers through Vindelfjaellen nature reserve, one of the biggest conservation areas in Europe.