Staying with the nuns in a quiet corner of Catalonia

By Manuel Meyer Apr 13, 2010, 14:46 GMT

Montserrat, Spain - Spotting Gaudi's architectural influence in Barcelona, partying on the beach at Lloret de Mar or hiking through the Pyrenees mountains - Catalonia offers a range of contrasting activities.

One facet of this area in north-eastern Spain has so far attracted little attention - magnificent monasteries which offer guests the opportunity to seek a few days of peace and tranquility in the lee of massive stone walls.

'Most people come here for peace and relaxation,' said Sister Maria Frederica, 'but a growing number of students make use of the profound stillness in order to prepare for their exams.'

The 79-year-old has lived for 54 years at the Santa Maria de Vallbona nunnery near Tarrega. The religious house of respite is located at the foot of the Tallat mountain range. In the 14th century, it was home to more than 70 nuns.

These days the number of women who respond to what they believe is God's call to become a nun is dwindling. Many rooms here are vacant and maintaining the Cistercian abbeys is expensive. The trend has prompted many of the sisters to turn the plain cells for the nuns into comfortable bedrooms for more worldly guests.

Santa Maria de Vallbona is one of three major cloisters along the Cistercian Trail. The route guides visitors through the attractive countryside and village of the Catalonian hinterland, stretching from the coast at Tarragona to the foothills of the Pyrenees near Lleida.

The most celebrated of the monasteries hereabouts is the 12th century Santa Maria de Poblet near Montblanc, which has been on the UNESCO list of world heritage sites since 1991. Many Catalonian and Aragonian kings found their last resting places here. The abbey was for centuries a cornerstone of royal power.

Poblet is surrounded by a mighty wall which measures 600 metres in length and stands 11 metres tall. On the inside, the stones are covered with vines. Naturally, visitors are invited to try the wines they produce. The third Cistercian abbey at Santa Creus also dates back to the 12th century. It is no longer a monastic community.

Regardless of whether they are run by the Benedictines, the Franciscans or the Cistercians, the monastery programmes offer culture, spirituality and calm. The Monestir de les Avellanes near Os de Balaguer is an exception. There are 72 guest rooms, an excellent restaurant and a wide range of sporting activities.

Yoga and meditation courses are held regularly below the ancient Romanesque cloisters. There are organized rambles through the Ager Valley and mountain bikes can be rented. With its numerous reservoirs, the area is ideal territory for exploring witha kayak or canoe.

Towering above the fishing village of El Port de la Selva on Cabo de Creus peninsula is the Benedictine monastery of San Pere de Rodes. The 11th century castle-like structure, with its church and fortified tower, is home today to a restaurant and a hostel for guests.

More spectacular than San Pere de Rodes is the view from Catalonia's most important religious retreat at Montserrat monastery.

It was here in 880 that a group of shepherds came across the world-famous carved black statue of the Virgin Mary known as La Moreneta. Some 200 years later it was moved by the monks to a chapel among the jagged peaks which formed the foundation of monastic community which now attracts some two-and-a-half million visitors annually.