Corsica on foot: a walk along the Grande Randonnee 20

By Ulrike Koltermann Mar 23, 2010, 16:03 GMT

Ajaccio, Corsica - Shortly before reaching the first pass, large raindrops fall on our perspiring faces. After wandering for hours, the refreshing drops of water are a relief and no-one puts their rain-hat on. But for mountain guide Olivier it is a warning to quickly move on. A short time later we find out why: the rain becomes intense and pea-sized hailstones crackle down on our heads.

Like a procession of hunchback monks we continue onwards, our rucksacks concealed beneath capes flapping in the wind. Even during the summer months the Corsican highlands can provide a few surprises to hikers.

But the mountainous island is also a paradise for hill walkers who can pass through aromatic pine forests and climb alpine peaks while looking down upon the Mediterranean below. The most spectacular and difficult of France's hiking routes is the Grande Randonnee 20. Corsica also has wonderful shepherd paths and high trails along the coastline. Olivier's plan is to show us all of that.

As it is early in the season there is still snow on the initial stages of the GR 20 which is why we opt to take a few easier paths that mirror the legendary trail. The GR 20, one of the more difficult hill waking routes in Europe, is 180 kilometres long and is divided into 14 stages that are each between five and 8.5 kilometres long.

While walking along the old shepherd's path for several days we hardly saw anyone but now we are struggling against a stream of hikers walking in the opposite direction, people blocking the way and those trying to overtake us. 'It's like driving on the orbital motorway around Paris,' remarks one woman from the French capital.

In the morning we walk through a pine forest dappled with sunshine. The higher we walk, the more gnarled the trees become, until they are replaced by juniper bushes whose lower branches tickle our legs. In the air is the aroma of Corsica's maquis: the island's dense shrub land of thyme, pine and lavender. Shortly before arriving at the Col des Maures we encounter the first snow and engage in a snowball fight.

Every day the landscape changes even though we only manage to walk a few kilometres. From Col de Vergio we rise through a pass where the beech trees have grown almost parallel to the ground thanks to the powerful gusts of wind that blow here.

After reaching the mountain hut of Vaccaghia we try some homemade goat's cheese. 'It smells like your socks but it tastes a lot better,' says the landlady. Everyone who has read Asterix knows that Corsican cheese has a very severe odour. As we rest at the wooden table and sip on chestnut beer the shepherd milks his goats.

The next morning we begin what is one of the longest and hottest stages along the route. We follow the mountain stream, the Tavignano, up to the former capital of Corte. The stream leads through narrow valleys and falls over cliff walls, releasing a damp mist in all the colours of the rainbow.

Occasionally the stream collects into small pools perfect for overheated and tired hill walkers. It is midday and Olivier suggests we take a break to bath in one of the pools. The water is ice cold and we go for what turns out to be a breathless swim. Afterwards we dry ourselves on the warm sun-heated rocks around the pool.

If you decide to avoid what is regarded as the difficult middle part of the GR 20 you can take a train from Corte that transports tourists through countless tunnels across the island. The more simple southern section of the route begins in Vizzavona and takes about a week to complete.

We have gradually found a rhythm of taking early morning breaks to re-energise with dried fruit and Corsican biscuits, picnicking and having a siesta in the shade at midday and then having a large dinner of pasta in a mountain hut in the evening. It does not take long for a sense of community to build up when walking the GR 20. Walkers quickly get to know each other, you pass them by, meet for a picnic or meet them again at the next hut by evening.

No later than at the mountain hut in Usciolu does it become obvious that the route is in danger of succumbing to its own success. The hut consists of two floors of mattresses that can accommodate about 30 people. Outside about 100 tents have been put up by walkers around the building.

Our trek is approaching its end. Behind the Bavella mountains that look like huge towers of building blocks, the path winds its way down towards civilisation. We take a deep breath of the warm pine forest air and a mobile telephone rings -- an unwelcome reminder that our journey is over.