Not for wimps - Scotland's Highlands in the spring

By Andreas Heimann Mar 23, 2010, 16:03 GMT

Edinburgh - Most visitors to Scotland come in the summer months when the shoreline around Loch Ness can be almost as full as the Spanish Steps in Rome. However, there is no chance of that happening in spring when the Highlands are practically empty of tourists, there is less sunshine, a cold wind blows and snow lies on the ground. Springtime in Scotland may not be for wimps but the landscape is at its most stunning and locals have more time to chat.

Alastair MacLennan's voice contains an unmistakable irritated tone. 'If you ask them where milk comes from, most kids say 'from the supermarket' and if you ask them how the milk got in the supermarket they say 'it comes from the factory'.' Alastair shakes his head and tramps across the farmyard to the cowshed. Eight calves were born there in the preceding 24 hours. Today, they stare at visitors with their large eyes.

The Highlands of Scotland are a hard place for farmers. 'Winter lasts seven months here,' says Alastair. Temperatures can fall as low as minus 20 degrees Celsius and when the snow finally melts, rivers break their banks, causing flooding. 'In 1991 the farm was flooded for several months. I almost gave up.'

Alastair did not give up but decided to focus on eco-tourism. His farm is not far from Grantown-on-Spey and is a showpiece project for the organisation Linking Environment and Farming (LEAF). The organisation's goal is to help farmers learn how to protect the environment. The farm at Balliefurth is regarded as one of the best breeding grounds for birds in the Highlands. Thousands of them nest here during springtime.

Broomhill railway station is close to Alastair's farm. A couple of dozen birds have settled on the sheep pasture behind the old railway station building. The station has just one platform and the train that stops there is pulled by a steam locomotive. The snow-capped Highlands rise in the background.

A trip on the Strathspey Steam Train is like journeying back in time. Its seats are padded and red cloths cover the tables. Passengers sip on ginger ale while gazing out at the desolate landscape. Tour guides describe the line to Aviemore as a scenic route and for once that lives up to the promise - the countryside is especially beautiful here.

Aviemore is a popular destination with tourists mainly because of Rothiemurchus Estate, an enormous area of land that encompasses a large section of ancient Caledonian forest. Alfred McGregor - or simply Alf as he is known to everyone -- climbs out of his Land Rover Defender sporting an outdoor jacket, a moustache and a grey baseball cap over his grey hair. Alf is the estate's senior ranger. He calls on his passengers to get in the Land Rover for a safari, the ultimate activity the estate has to offer.

The land has belonged to the Grant family for the last 450 years. Seventeen generations of Grants have lived here, raising cattle, enjoying the clean air and hunting in this remote region.

Alf sits behind the steering wheel and guides the Land Rover around the large potholes in the road. 'Our Highland beef cattle are grazing on the hills,' he says. 'We have about 50 cattle. The bull back there is called Mr Grumpy. He's not in a good mood right now because he can't get to his lady friends.'

Mr Grumpy does indeed look quite unhappy. With his shaggy coat, large body and enormous horns, the bull looks like something you shouldn't get close to - even when he's in a good mood.

The safari continues over an enormous landscape, past Caledonian forest with juniper, birch and heather. A squirrel flits up a tree trunk as mountain bikers and hikers cross the path. The road leads past a house that belongs to the elderly Colonel Grant. 'Some people say there's a ghost in the house,' says Alf. Alf does not want to say whether he agrees with the stories.

The Land Rover rolls into the deer enclosure and the animals stare at the new visitors with large, friendly eyes. The deer are kept for their meat and will eventually be slaughtered.

Every year about 100,000 people visit Rothiemurchus. Not only do they come for the Land Rover safari, they also come to go pony trekking, clay pigeon shooting or visit Ord Ban restaurant. The restaurant serves local dishes such as hare, deer, pheasant and beef. Tea is also very popular, especially when a cold wind is blowing outside and snowflakes are falling.