Venice faces annual invasion of the paddle boats

Mar 9, 2010, 8:25 GMT

Venice - Once under the Rialto Bridge, the Scottish oarsmen waste no time in getting out the bagpipes.

The strains of 'Amazing Grace' can soon be heard warbling across the Canal Grande in the heart of Venice, vying for aural attention with a traditional rendering of 'Sur le pont d'Avignon' from equally waterborne French musicians.

On Sunday May 23, when this year's Venice Vogolonga, or 'long row' regatta gets underway, thousands of Venetian rowers and many others from all over the world will be giving their sporting best during a 30-kilometre aquatic odyssey through the lagoons.

Only people-powered craft, such as canoes, kayaks or other rowing boats, are eligible to take part. Motorboats are strictly forbidden.

The rowing marathon has been a regular feature on the Venice calendar since 1974 and continues to grow in popularity. The event usually boasts some 6,000 participants in 1,500 boats with enthusiastic watersports fans and tourists on brief city vacations all joining in the party atmosphere.

At precisely 9 am, a thunderous canon boom from St Mark's Square signals the start of the event at the Bacino di San Marco, a wide stretch of water in front of St Mark's and the Ducal Palace.

The colourful rowers, many dressed up for the occasion, swarm down the Grand Canal past the islands of Vignole and Sant'Erasmo and through the centre of Murano before returning to Venice via the canale di Cannareggio and back down the Grand Canal to the finish.

Competitors are closely bunched together at the entrance to the canal. Between here and the Rialto Bridge, the water reverberates to the slap of oars, the shouts and songs of rowing teams and the applause of enthusiastic spectators. The best place to watch the spectacle is from one of the cafes on the bridge, where visitors can just pull up a chair, enjoy the view and applaud the rowing teams.

Paddling under one of the most distinctive landmarks in Venice is a highlight for most of those taking part. Some teams raise their oars in salute or break into song. Racing craft rub hulls here with humble paddle boats or homemade rafts whose crews take along plenty of beer for the day.

The 2009 edition of the event was held during particularly inclement weather. A storm lashed the lagoon and experienced competitors opted to stay on land. A few paddlers braved the rain but the choppy conditions capsized dozens of smaller craft and rescue crews were in action for most of the day. Only a handful of competitors made it to the finish.

The regatta is open to anyone who thinks he can match the challenge, although children aged under 16 years must be accompanied by a parent. Competitors must have enrolled at Villa Farsetti near the Rialto Bridge by May 22 and each pays 15 euros (20 dollars) for a starting number. Participants come from all over Europe and many bring their boats with them on trailers.

The chance to explore the canals of Venice like a gondolier but without having to dodge vaporettos and noisy motorcraft is the big attraction of the Vogolonga, although it is easy to underestimate the skills needed. Those with no training in propelling themselves through water should exercise caution.

German rowing trainer Frank Dolze of the Neptune club in Darmstadt recommends at least eight training sessions before attempting the Vogolonga. Dolze has taken part plenty of times and warns novices that the strong winds and swell in the lagoon soon wear out the unwary. Speed is not of the essence though, since a medal is handed over to anyone who manages to complete the course. Leisurely progress is what this event is about.

'For many Venetians this is all about silencing the motor boats for a few hours,' said Plinio Zanini of the city's Voga Veneta Mestre rowing club. The Vogalonga started off as a protest rally against the unbridled use of motorised transport in Venice, he explained.

'There has been a steady increase in the number of boats racing through the canals,' said Zanini. They churn up the water and cause damage to the foundations of the city and its delicate ecosystems. 'Restoration work runs into millions.'

Speed limits were imposed on canal traffic years ago and by law the boats must carry numberplates. Maximum speed on the water is 20 kilometres, although 12 or sometimes 5 kilometres an hour is often more appropriate. Radar traps throughout the city are designed to deter speeding.

But during the regatta, Venice can breath a sign of relief. 'Boat enthusiasts from all over Europe lend their support to this silent protest,' said Plinio Zanini even if the history and significance of the event is lost on most of those taking part.