The 'America of Antiquity': Sicily's wild west

Feb 23, 2010, 14:00 GMT

Marsala, Sicily - Italy's poorhouse and bastion of the mafia: those who do not know Sicily might quickly fall prey to this stereotypical image of the Mediterranean Sea's largest island.

Those who have already visited Sicily have probably seen the majestic Mount Etna volcano, taken a stroll along the waterfront of the erstwhile Greek metropolis of Syracuse, seen the ancient theatre of Taormina or visited the late-baroque town of Noto.

But those who decide to avoid the island's southern and eastern areas and instead venture westward will experience the magic spell cast by the barren and ancient landscape described by Sicilian writer Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa (1896-1957) in his epic novel Il Gattopardo (The Leopard).

The gateway to Sicily is Palermo, the restive metropolis nestled between two mountains, Pellegrino and Catalfano. The city, overwhelmed as it is by social problems, is a monument to contradictions: directly next to the jewels of Norman architecture and the wide, deep-blue bay rages the chaos of everyday life.

For the journey west. it is recommended not to drive along the coastline, but to avoid the northern tip and take a short cut through the backcountry areas.

The straight-as-an-arrow road leads by the Monreale Cathedral, which towers over the Gulf, a true masterpiece of Norman construction. From there, the route leads to the next gulf in the north-western part of the island.

On the coast lies the elegant Castellammare del Golfo. With its well-visited beaches it appears to embody every cliche of Mediterranean beauty.

But on a stretch of land not very far away, there awaits a true discovery, San Vito lo Capo, with its white sands and emerald-green waters, cozy hotels and fine restaurants. San Vito lo Capo is an ideal base for day excursions.

Taking merely a beach holiday would be a shame. For Sicily, dubbed the 'America of Antiquity' by writer Lampedusa, is resplendent with old fortresses and baroque grandeur. They are witnesses to a stormy history and underscore Lampedusa's contention: up to the discovery of America, Sicily was one of the hubs of world civilization.

On the road from San Vito lo Capo to the port city of Trapani, some 50 kilometres away, it is worthwhile making a stop at the medieval village of Erice, situated 750 metres up in the mountains.

Steep alleyways lead to the town's forts and temple. For nourishment, one should try the Pasta delle Mandorle, a typical Sicilian marzipan, or almond paste cake, which, naturally, is also sold in Erice.

Next stop is Trapani, with its gridwork layout of streets. Alongside the baroque-style Centro Storico (historical centre) around the Corso Vittorio Emanuele boulevard, a visitor is left with the impression of a self-confident port city.

This is something which the ancient civilizations of the Phoenicians and Carthaginians esteemed. At the port, fishermen patiently repair their nets, helping them forget that their Trapani is deemed to be a bastion of Sicily's mafia.

The discovery tour next leads over flatlands, past saline lakes and windmills to the city of Marsala, the westernmost point on the island, which the Arabs had once dubbed 'God's port,' from which the place derives its name.

But aficionados of wine know the name as a type of desert wine, and many a visitor will order a few bottles as a companion for their tiramisu back home. But the sweet wine is not typical of those on Sicily, most of them being dry and straightforward.

Now, it is finally time to explore more thoroughly Sicily's ancient heritage. A practical introduction is offered by the Greek ruins of Segesta in the mountains behind Trapani and Marsala.

Segesta consists of three temples nestled in the gentle hills, along with what remains of an amphitheatre with its sweeping panorama. The often barren, and in summer months burned, earth recalls the melancholy atmosphere in Lampedusa's novel Il Gattopardo.

Leaving Segesta, the route leads toward the island interior, going past the small city of Salemi through the wine district. Here, between Marsala and Menfi, are where Sicily's zesty and light white wines are produced.

On the south-western coast, finally, there is Selinunte with the largest archaeological excavation anywhere in Europe. The Selinunte Archaeological Park is located above the sea and, with its sweeping views of the southern and western coasts, it is saturated with ruins of temples from the Greek era. Strewn about are columns of the temples and off in the distance the remains of an acropolis.

On the route to Capo Bianco, the road leads again through the vineyards in the Menfi region. Once the traveller reaches the cape, a visitor may be excused for forgetting history, even though here, and in the nearby Eraclea Minoa, antiquity is deeply etched in the landscape. The reason is that Capo Bianco offers one of the best beaches anywhere on Sicily.

Before returning to the island's interior and heading towards Palermo, one further highlight of the island's magical triangle is awaiting at Argigento: the peaceful valley of the temples which, especially at sundown, sets the final accent on the architectural masterpieces.