Nuremberg's Christmas market continues to entrance visitors

Dec 8, 2009, 9:28 GMT

Nuremberg, Germany - Some people would do almost anything, such as fly half way around the globe, to go for a stroll through the traditional Christmas market in Nuremberg, Germany.

Others will take on the rigours of a long bus journey in the hope of walking through the city's narrow streets and getting a bit of traditional lebkuchen (gingerbread cookies). They are also set on buying as many Christmas decorations as they can get their hands on.

Visitors to Nuremberg this holiday season can expect about 180 stallholders selling Christmas goods with the whiff of mulled wine wafting through the air. The market was opened on November 27 at 5.30 pm by the Christ kind (child) just as has been done for the past 76 years. This year the role of the Christ kind was taken on by 17-year-old Johanna Heller in a hearty and spontaneous performance.

The people of Nuremberg decide who gets to play the Christ kind in a vote. The job requirements are rather strict: candidates must be Nuremberg-born, not suffer from vertigo and have a minimum height.

Johanna Heller will not be able to complain about having too little to do. As Christ kind she's expected to make over 200 appearances during Advent with the last one taking place at midday on Christmas Eve.

Along with regular promenades over the Christmas market there are also visits to children's homes and hospitals. Traditionally the girl who plays the Christ kind is not obliged to go to school and she gets her own chauffeur who drives her to appointments. The first public appearance is at the market opening when wearing a wig of golden curls, a golden gown and crown the Christ kind officially opens the market from the gallery of the Frauenkirche (Our Lady's Church).

Since 1969 the Christ kind has been chosen exclusively from Nuremberg's children. For 20 years before that actors played the role but the ceremony, however, has not changed at all over the years. There is always fanfare, a choir that sings Christmas carols, and flanked by two golden angels the Christ kind makes a traditional opening announcement. For most people that moment marks the beginning of Advent.

For the last 10 years the city has organised a special programme to cater for children's entertainment needs on Hans-Sachs-Platz. Kids can make their own Christmas gifts and visit the Christmas bakery, the candle factory and the glass blowing workshop. There are also two steam driven carousels and a nostalgic-looking ferris wheel all bathed in wonderful Christmas lights.

Nuremberg's Christmas market has existed for hundreds of years. Its first mention in historical texts was in 1628 but 'we assume the market is much older,' says Helmut Nordhardt, manager of the city's market authority. Nordhardt bases this belief on a complaint by a local priest 12 years previous to 1628 that he had to cancel evening prayers because all his parishioners were Christmas shopping.

'At the end of the 17th century the market was lost in the darkness of history,' says Nordhardt but its basic elements have remained the same over the years. It was never a 'romantic market.' 'Its purpose was to supply the population with everything they needed for Christmas.'