Bull's blood and sulphurous baths - northern Hungary's surprises

Travel Features

Jul 22, 2008, 14:02 GMT

Miskolc, Hungary - Approaching the caves in Miskoltapolca in northern Hungary, it quickly becomes apparent that these are no ordinary caves. There's a whiff of iodine in the air. Thermalized water drips from a boulder into a bucket. Upon entering, it's dark until a spotlight illuminates the chalk cave, part of a natural network of caves through which regenerative waters flow. The baths in this mountain are considered some of Hungary's nicest. Guests can relax all day in the grottoes and adjoining sauna and wellness centre. In fact, some guests come only to take the waters. But there's a lot more for visitors to discover in this mountainous region. Miskolctapolca is a suburb of Miskolc, Hungary's third-largest city, about 180 kilometres east of Budapest at the foot of the Bukk Mountains. Until the fall of communism, it was a centre of heavy industry, but the days of steel and iron are long gone. Locals now look to an economy based on research, technology and tourism in future. Miskolc's centre is really cosy, now that it has been cleaned up and its squares decorated with baroque facades, harkening back to the town's 18th century heyday. Sights include the Diosgyor Castle, the Orthodox churches and the picture gallery. The Pearl of the Bukk Mountains, the town of Lillafured on Lake Hamori, lies near Miskolc. Don't miss the monumental Palota Palace Hotel. In the midst of the Great Depression, between 1927 and 1930, the city opted to have it refurbished in a 15th century Renaissance style. It remained a luxury destination until 1945, when the Soviet Army occupied it and removed most of its adornments. After extensive renovations, the old glory of the palace on the sea has been partially restored. Lillafured is a good starting point for hiking and exploring Bukk National Park. Reaching elevations of 900 metres, the mountains are nearly completely forested - Bukk translates into 'birch.' Wildcats, ermines and rare species of frog and bat make their homes in this uninhabited region. The high plateau has a unique microclimate, making it home to 1,500 of Hungary's 2,500 native plant species. The baroque city of Eger lies on the other side of the mountains and is worth a visit. Tourists can find a minaret alongside Hungary's second largest basilica, plus a fortress from the days of the Turkish occupation. Restorative thermal water also bubbles to the surface in Eger, into a Turkish bath dating from 1610. However, Eger is known for a second kind of liquid - Egri Bikaver. This Bull's Blood is the region's red wine, a blend of multiple grapes. Tastings are offered in Szeoasszony-volgy, the valley of beautiful women. Miskolc has its delicacies too. Its marketing department is happy to boast that 'the aspic quivers best' here. Dishes based on jellied meats have a tradition here dating back to the 18th century. Legend has it that a frog once hopped into a pot of congealing aspic and was accidentally served alive in the jelly. The city celebrates its passion for the quivering delicacy every year with what is probably the world's only jellied meats festival.

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Bull's blood and sulphurous baths - northern Hungary's surprises

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