By Detlef Berg Mar 27, 2007, 6:58 GMT
San Sebastian, Spain - La Gomera is literally a huge block of volcanic stone which rises abruptly from the ocean and stretches to nearly 1,500 metres above the Atlantic waves.
One of the best views of this island, which measures just 25 kilometres across at its broadest, is to be had from Garajonay peak in the national park which bears its name. More than 40 'barrancos' or deep gorges push out from here to the coast. The barrancos have their own vegetation, from the arid to the lush, along with fascinating rock formations, remote hamlets and sometimes even their own microclimate.
Settlers were only able to gain a foothold where the barrancos meet the sea and one such place favoured the founding of the island capital San Sebastian. The port town was the last landfall for explorer Christopher Columbus who set off westwards from here with his trio of caravelles, the Santa Maria, Pinta and Nina, in his quest to find a sea route to India.
A small museum pays tribute to the seafarers. One feature of its courtyard is the Columbus well and according to legend, it provided the water supplies for the historic expedition. The inscription on a bronze plaque is full of pathos however, referring to the 'water used to christen America.'
Today the port of San Sebastian is used mainly by tourists who arrive here by ferry from the neighbouring island of Teneriffe. Gomera's airport is unable to accommodate large jets and this has ensured that tourism on the island remains low-key.
'Holidaymakers who come to us looking for sun, sand and sea have come to the wrong island and should opt instead for Teneriffe - just 30 minutes away,' said Jorge, who runs a small wine bar in the centre of San Sebastian. La Gomera has only a few beaches and most of these are small and stony.
'People coming for the nightlife also tend to be a bit dismayed,', said Jorge. The island has also managed to escape the architectural ravages which come with the bucket-and-spade brigade and there are no high-rise hotels to be seen. 'Gomera realized early on that its greatest treasure is the largely unspoilt nature of the interior,' said the barkeeper.
The second smallest island in the Canary archipelago attracts tourists looking for something different and hikers are particularly prominent among them. Valle Gran Rey, the 'Valley of the Great King', in the southwest, is one of the most popular walking bases. Starting as a steep ravine, it widens out towards the sea. White houses and hundreds of terraced fields cling to the sides of this attractive valley, where bananas, papayas and citrous fruits grow in profusion.
More than 160 tropical and sub-tropical fruit trees from avocados to guaves thrive too at the Finca Argaga. It was here that Rosita Schrader, who hails from Israel, and her husband, laid out a series of terraced gardens more than 20 years ago.
The original idea was to grow fruit and vegetables for home consumption, but after an increasingly number of interested visitors found their way to the idyllic spot, the couple began offering tours of their plantation during which visitors can supply some of the exotic fruits. Many of these are exclusive to the island.
An easy hike for visitors who want to get into the swing of things leads to the waterfall in the Arure gorge. The narrow path through the 'jungle' of vegetation takes them along the bed of a small brook at the bottom of the canyon past tall beds of bullrushes. Miniature waterfalls on the way are ideal for those who want to take a dip or simply soothe their sore feet.
A trip to the mountain villages of southern Gomera is more demanding. 'Those who take part should be physically fit, wear stout shoes and bring along with plenty to drink,' says Juergen Schubert, a German from the Ruhr industrial area who fell in love with Gomera.
For 10 years now he has been trekking with tourists - mostly Germans - through the most beautiful landscapes which this island has to offer. 'The most important thing is weatherproof clothing since the weather in the mountains can change rapidly', says the expert.
The hike starts in the El Cercado, where traditional clay pots are made, and to reach it tourists clamber aboard a Camino Real, one of the trucks used by farmers and tradesmen in these parts. During the journey there are some breathtaking views of the Gran Rey valley with its characteristic terraced fields and in the village itself there is time to visit one of the many restaurants.
Dishes include rabbit in a spicy sauce, salted potatoes served in their skins and various types of fish and crustaceans. A meal can be nicely rounded off with 'Leche asada', a traditional, calorie-rich concoction which uses 'Miel de Palma' - Canarian honey derived from palm trees instead of bees. The sweetener comes from the Phoenix Canariensis, the main species palm tree cultivated in La Gomera.
The sap is taken from the palms and cooked to make honey.
After sampling the culinary delights it's time to take a peek over the potter's shoulder. 'In El Cercado earthenware is still made in the traditional way and without the use of a potter's wheel', explains Schubert. Typical products are the undecorated dark red ceramics such the 'plato de las papas,' - a dish used to serve Canarian potatoes.
The next part of the journey takes the trekkers to Las Hayas with its wealth of palm trees. On the way, the scenery changes and often the weather with it. The sun was shining back in Valle Gran Rey but up here dark clouds are massing above the dense, mysterious laurel forest which is said to be thousands of years old.
In the upland village of Arure, where the hike comes to an end, it is noticeably much cooler than in the sun-kissed 'Valley of the Great King'.
The following day is reserved for a hike to Garajonay National Park. The massive which dominates the centre of the island is home to some of the last remains of the mist-enveloped evergreen laurel forests which last clothed most of the landscape around the Mediterranean millions of years ago.
The area around Garajonay, at 1,487 metres the highest point on Gomera, has been a protected zone since 1981 and was added to UNESCO's world heritage list in 1986.
According to fable, the name Garajonay harks back to two doomed lovers who chose death rather than living apart. Tales of the lovely Gara travelled wide and after hearing of her beauty Jonay left his native Teneriffe, swam the 30 kilometres to Gomera and fell immediately in love.
Gara found Jonay attractive too but the enthusiasm was not shared by her family who strongly opposed the liaison. The couple fled together to the highest mountain on La Gomera, but were pursued. In a bid to escape capture they sharpened a laurel stick at both ends, held it between their chests, and in a final embrace drove the stick through their hearts, killing themselves.
The national park covers 10 per cent of the island's surface and is best explored on foot. The park authority maintains a network of well-signposted routes, including the Los Barranquillos (The little gorges) path which makes a perfect introduction to the Gomeran landscape. It is around a kilometre long with no steep gradients.
Many of the trees along the way are covered in moss, owing to the high moisture content of the air in these parts. For many years the islanders paid little attention to the water-retaining qualities of the forest. They cut down and exported the trees or else used them for firewood, planting fast-growing Eucalyptus instead - a species which itself requires plenty of water.
The creation of a national park here came just in time to save what was left of the rare woodlands. ocated at the centre of a laurel forest is El Cedro, a clearing with just a few houses built of stone. Most of the inhabitants of this lonely valley emigrated to Venezuela during the Franco era.
The only hostelry for miles around can be found here. The lady that runs it serves nettle soup in wooden bowls, another Gomeran delicacy.
A good way to round off a holiday on La Gomera is to take an excursion on a former fishing boat. With a little luck tourists can catch sight of spotted dolphins or pilot whales in the waters around the island. Some of them swim tamely alongside the vessel. Lunch is usually taken at a remote cove with enough time for snorkelling before the tour resumes.
It's also possible to venture out to Los Organos, a dramatic volcanic rock formation only visible from the sea. Other tours circumnavigate the entire island, weather permitting. On a clear day the view extends across to the neighbouring islands of El Hierro, La Palma and Teneriffe, encompassing Tiede peak, Spain's highest mountain which stands 3,718 metres tall.
INFO-BOX: La Gomera
DESTINATION: La Gomera is the second smallest of the seven islands which comprise the Canary archipelago. It lies in the Atlantic off the coast of Africa, west of Teneriffe, northeast of El Hierro and southeast of La Palma. The main settlement is San Sebastian.
GETTING THERE: Several airlines fly regularly from Europe to Teneriffe. From here tourists can travel by scheduled bus or tax to the port of Los Cristianos, where ferries depart several times a day for San Sebastian or Valle Gran Rey. In order to explore the island, it is a good idea to hire a car.
CLIMATE AND THE BEST TIME TO TRAVEL: The climate on La Gomera is typical for the Canary Islands with pleasantly warm temperatures the whole year round. Expect the thermometer to be showing between 20 and 21 degrees celsius in winter, rising to between 26 and 30 degrees from June to October. December and January are the months with the most rainfall.
MONEY: As in the rest of Spain the euro is legal tender on Gomera.
INTERNET: www.spain.info, www.gomera-island.com.
Your Talkback on this Story