Pantelleria - a sun-baked retreat where Giorgio Armani enjoys a dip

By Carola Frentzen Oct 24, 2006, 10:49 GMT

Pantelleria, Italy - The 'Black Pearl of the Mediterranean', as the ancient Phoenicians called the island of Pantelleria, lies in a stretch of sea between Tunisia and Sicily, yet it has little in common with either Africa or Italy.

Instead of white beaches and waving palms Pantelleria offers steep cliffs and a rugged volcanic landscape shaped by the constantly- blowing winds and baked by the African sun. It reminds some visitors of the Scottish Highlands.

Strangely enough, the locals have managed to earn a living from this soil as farmers since time immemorial. Fishing has never been particularly important. Wild capers grow at the roadside on this island of just 83 square kilometres, the terraced vineyards boast generous yields and the ocean is ever present, shimmering in the background

'Pantelleria is also known as the island of sun and wind,' says Marco Fragonara, who hails originally from northern Italy and fell in love with this patch of land years ago. Since then he was worked as a travel guide. 'Nobody knows Pantelleria better than Marco,' the islanders agree. Visitors are always asking him where they can find the island's volcano, since the island is of volcanic origin.

'Unfortunately there is no volcano on the island because it lies in the ocean!' says Fragonara with a smile and runs a hand through his lightly-greying mane of hair.

Pantelleria was formed more than 350,000 years ago in series of eight eruptions. Around 45,000 years ago the island imploded in a mass of volcanic activity, creating the mountains, valleys and hills which can be seen today. What also emerged was the 'Specchio di Venere', the so-called Mirror of Venus. This turquoise-coloured lake of sulphuric waters is fed by underground springs warmed by the magma which lies under the island. It has a depth of 12 metres and is highly regarded for the therapeutic properties of its waters. The panoramic view from its shores is also spectacular.

The same cannot be said of Pantelleria itself, the main settlement on the island. The town was razed by heavy bombing during World War II. Italy's fascist dictator Benito Mussolini took advantage of its strategic position and ordered it to be turned into a fortress. The roads and airport built for the purpose are still in use today. Pantelleria was known for a while as 'Mussolini's aircraft-carrier' . In 1943, the Allies bombarded the island as a precursor to the invasion of Sicily.

Such dramatic historical developments have made little impact on the geological natural wonders of the island such as the 'Arco dell'elefante' (Elephant Arch), a striking volcanic structure which rises out of the sea south of Cala Levante. It is a fine place for swimming and snorkelling and legend has it that when water supplies on the island are low, the elephant pumps it in from the sea.

After a strenuous day exploring the island, guests can sample the island's typical Moscato and Passito dessert wines - they go down particularly well with a 'Bruschetta' topped with a cream made from capers. The wine 'Passito di Pantelleria' is famous throughout the world and is made from local Zibibbo grapes. 'The must is pressed from fully-ripe fresh grapes and dried grapes, destalked by hand, are added to it during fermentation,' says Giacomo Rallo, head of the 'Donnafugata' winery.

Star designer Giorgio Armani fell under the spell of this island years ago and he likes to describe himself as one of the island's pioneer tourists. He now owns a magnificent property at Couturier near Cala Gadir. It consists of six 'Dammusi', the name given to the indigenous houses on the island, mostly whitewashed, rounded single- storey buildings built in the Arab architectural style. Tourists can rent one of these homes for a holiday, arguably one of the most pleasant and authentic ways to spend a holiday on Pantelleria.