Though not for everyone, natural cosmetics' popularity growing

Feb 11, 2010, 12:35 GMT

Berlin - Following the lead of food and clothing manufacturers, cosmetic makers have discovered LOHAS - people who follow a Lifestyle of Health and Sustainability.

The products break away from the image of health store cosmetics used by earth moms by offering bright colours and an ease of use that have made them into a lifestyle accessory. But consumers should know that they are not tolerated by all skin types and thus are not automatically better than conventional products.

'The truth lies somewhere in between,' said German dermatologist Wolfgang Klee. People with sensitive skin should be cautious.

There are in fact no completely reliable legal guidelines for putting a natural cosmetic seal on a product. Among the designations in Germany is one granted by the German federal association of industrial and commercial enterprises marking a product as a 'tested natural cosmetic.' Another granted by the industry association for personal care and laundry products designates a product as natural with a stamp that reads 'NaTrue.'

'Roughly, you can say that these product contain only ingredients that occur in nature or are semi-natural,' said Laura Gross of a consumer initiative in Berlin. According to a standard set by the German federal association of industrial and commercial enterprises, the plant-based raw materials must come from an ecologically certified source.

'This means that the ingredients where applicable come from monitored collections found in the wild and they do not result from the exploitation of nature,' Gross added.

Synthetic dyes, aromas and preservatives such as formaldehyde, paraffin, silicon and benzyl alcohol are taboo. In addition the makers of natural cosmetics have committed to carrying out no tests on animals, said Hanne Vedder of Germany's consumer bureau. However, the German federal association of industrial and commercial enterprises exempts third party product testing involving animals.

'The advantage is that the use of natural products goes back centuries,' said Gross. These natural salves, lotions and bath gels as a rule contain fewer ingredients and thereby fewer allergens. They are purer, but that also restricts them, said Gross.

Jens Burfeindt of Germany's industry association for personal care and laundry products added that products whose ingredients are derived strictly from plants are not able to fulfil all the functions of modern products. Cold-pressed olive oil, for example, is perfectly suitable in making creams and bath gels, but is less ideal as an ingredient of shampoo or sunblock. 'They often walk the line,' said Burfeindt.

Therefore, when considering natural cosmetics the same is true as with conventional products: First try them out. Testers and samples have become available in drugs stores and in health stores. The best way to test is to apply the cream to the elbow for two or three days, Klee said. This will quickly determine whether the product is tolerated. One big problem is that many natural ingredients such as vanilla, cinnamon, lavender and tea-tree oil are potential allergens for many people.

Marigolds, which are commonly used in personal care products for children, often cause erythema (reddened skin) in people whose skin is sensitive. Balsam of Peru is another ingredient that is not every person's thing and the natural dyes such as cobalt, nickel and henna are not entirely unproblematic. This makes a list of ingredients on the package all the more essential.

'An ingredient whose name begins with the prefix bromo, iod, chloro or fluoro should make a consumer sceptical,' said Gross, adding that caution should be exercised in handling the products because most contain no preservatives. 'You have to pay attention to the expiration date and be meticulous about hand washing when using the product so that no impurities get into it.'

She suggests buying the products in small tubes or pots and storing them in a dark place. Whether natural products are purchased at a pharmacy or from a special department of a drugstore makes no difference. Consumers, however, should note that some of the ingredients have a unique smell.

'Natural aromas such as rose oil are very expensive. Others such as sallow thorn and lavender take time to get used to,' said Gross.

Vedder added that these products have had few takers for a long time. But now a particular lifestyle or attitude toward life is sold along with natural cosmetics. An aura of absolute naturalness goes along with it.

'In the end whether a consumer decides to use natural products is an ideological question,' said Gross.