By Gian-Philip Andreas Jan 26, 2012, 3:06 GMT
Berlin - Men's bridal fashion is a good example of how some things never change. In 2012 a white or lightly coloured shirt with a dark suit is still the classic look, but tailoring and colourful accessories help to modernize it.
While weddings in films and catalogs often are made to look gaudy and garish, the majority of couples choose classic styles. For the grooms this usually means a black or charcoal suit with a white shirt. 'It's really true that 90 per cent keep to these conventions,' said Friederike Mauritz, chairwoman of the association of German wedding planners in Frankfurt. 'In high summer a few men select beige or white suits, but this remains the exception.'
What seems like a boring aspect of wedding culture is more sophisticated than it appears. However, it requires a close look beginning with the type of suit, which depends on the size of the budget, the location and the tone of the wedding. Volkmar Arnulf of the German association of tailors describes the proper attire for an elaborate and exclusive wedding specifically.
'During the day at the ceremony in the registrar's office, in the church and at the dinner reception, the groom wears a tailored suit. In the evening he appears in coattails or at the very least a smoking jacket,' Arnulf said. A black or dark blue suit is appropriate attire for the groom at a less grandiose affair, added the Berlin-based master tailor.
Grooms who choose the more elaborate affair must follow certain rules. For example, coattails are never to be worn during the day. The opposite is true of a frock coat (also called a Prince Albert after Queen Victoria's prince consort). It shouldn't be worn after 6 pm.
A top hat often is worn with a frock coat and the trousers are pinstriped. Although the frock coat sounds a bit high society, Dusseldorf-based fashion designer and tailor Astrid Werle said the frock coat nevertheless is seen at German weddings. The matching top hat is usually borrowed.
The silhouette of a groom's suit over the years has become more youthful looking. Grooms today wear suits tailored closely to their bodies, snug trousers and short jackets.
'A jacket with more than two buttons should be avoided,' said Werle. The lapel is usually very narrow. A wide lapel is only appropriate on stocky men. Arnulf follows other time-tested rules. For example, the jacket should fall at least to the crotch so that the groom's bottom doesn't show when he turns and faces the altar. 'It's not a nice thing when the wedding guests have to look at a puckered bum.'
Fabrics currently popular are light mohair as well as wool-silk blends with discreet pin-stripes or a stripe woven into the fabric, said Werle. 'These make a lightly variable optic possible without it being too shiny,' she said.
As for the shirt, white is popular with most men. Despite a diverse range of beige, champagne and creme tones, which are combined with one another in some 2012 collections, the trend is going back to classic white. The German-based men's fashion house Roy Robson has in its 2012 a flower petal white shirt with matching handkerchief combined with a light grey-blue suit.
The groom's shirt, however, must match the bride's dress, said Mauritz. In addition, a couple who choose pastel colours, while at the same time taking pains not to look like twins, can also emphasize a few elements of colour conformity in their wedding attire.
Accessories can bring colour into the outfit more emphatically. The handkerchief, which a groom should have to brush away tears of joy from his bride's face, can match the lining of his jacket. But it shouldn't be overdone: 'The colours shouldn't compete with each other,' said Arnulf.
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