Life Features

Be discreet - makeup tips for women over 50

By Manja Gress Oct 20, 2011, 3:06 GMT

Berlin - What woman rejoices over wrinkles? The overwhelming majority want to conceal them one way or another, but beauty experts caution women over 50 to be as discreet as possible when applying makeup to those unwelcome smile lines around the mouth and crows feet near the eyes.

It can be a challenge for women to conceal these inevitable facial fault-lines along with age spots without looking like she has put on a mask. The best way to look younger is to use a moisturizer that matches the skin type, apply the right foundation, add a concealer and a little powder, and brush on a discreet amount of blush. And remember that not every little wrinkle must be covered.

Heike M. Falkenstein, a makeup artist from Trier, advises women over 50 to use discretion when applying their makeup and make it look stylish.

'The older the woman is, the less attractive heavy makeup looks,' said Falkenstein. She may use makeup to emphasize her eyes, but not excessively with dark black eyeliner, for example.

Falkenstein also recommends that women over 50 be thorough in their lipstick application.

'From a certain age the lips develop wrinkles that lipstick settles into,' she said. Thus, the darker the colour, the more exact the application must be.

Women also should cleanse their skin and apply a daytime moisturizer before putting on their makeup. The best makeup looks only half as good when the skin hasn't been properly cared for.

'Foundation should never be applied to dry skin because the colour pigment in the foundation will stick to dead skin cells,' she said, adding that it is important to consider not only moisture, but also the oils in a product when selecting a face cream for older skin. 'They help the skin retain moisture.'

Peter Schmidinger, a makeup expert with a German cosmetic association, said foundation should be carefully worked into the skin and not just smeared on. He recommends products that mimic skin pigment and follow facial movements and therefore don't settle into the wrinkles.

Women who have mild skin irregularities should use liquid foundation, while those who have more noticeable irregularities should use compact powder, which is better at covering the problem areas, said Schmidinger.

'Foundations and powder with light-reflecting pigments look especially nice because they even out the wrinkles a bit,' he added.

Foundation should not be applied too thickly, otherwise it can get flaky and uneven and leave spots on the face, said Gabriela Herzig, a cosmetician from Berlin.

She recommends products that are free of extra oils and fats and leave a matt finish. After applying the makeup the face should be dusted with a light-reflecting powder to fix it in place. The goal is skin that looks as smooth as porcelain, Schmidinger said.

Areas around the eye that are often the first to show wrinkles should be brightened up with a concealer or light-reflecting cream, the makeup experts say.

'Age spots can be covered with a powder,' said Schmidinger, adding that women should never use cover sticks on age spots because this will leave the complexion looking uneven.

Falkenstein advises women not to try to conceal everything. It's better to accept wrinkles and age spots than to cover them with a mask, she said. Older women also should refrain from strongly coloured blushes and instead choose tender tones and apply the blush in the right spot.

'Mature women should begin at the middle of the cheek bone and spread the blush outward to the temples,' said Falkenstein. 'When the cheek bones are emphasized, the face looks younger. But apply the makeup discreetly.'

When the right technique is used, no woman needs a lot of makeup to look fantastic, said Schmidinger. 'Generally, only three steps are necessary to make a face look harmonious and expressive,' he said. 'Lighten the skin, apply blush and define the eyebrows.'

Finally, Falkenstein warns against selecting products that are needlessly expensive. She suggests having a professional analysis of the skin done in order to ensure that the promised results match the skin's needs.