Floor tiling for the DIYer

By Stephanie Hoenig Jul 14, 2011, 4:06 GMT

Berlin - The cost of tiling can be reduced significantly if you do it yourself but would-be DIY enthusiasts should think carefully before taking on the task.

'Unfortunately, it only looks easy at first glance,' warns Michael Pommer, a DIY Academy teacher in Cologne.

Hobby tilers sometimes lack the necessary knowledge about grouting, fixing and cutting, which can lead to tiles cracking, falling off or becoming loose at a later date. 'It's essential to have a level surface when laying tiles,' says Jens-Uwe Fellhauer of the Industrial Association for Ceramic Plates and Tiles in Berlin.

The basic rule is simple: the larger the tile, the more even the surface needs to be. Uneven sections can be tackled with the help of small tiles, a trick that has been used for generations.

Floor tiles are generally laid on a dry screed or cast plaster floor but it also possible to tile on a wooden floor with the help of a chipboard base, explains Pommer. The chipboard not only acts as insulation but also reduces the noise levels when people walk on the floor. The chipboard base should float and not be secured to the floorboards although any loose boards should be fixed.

Footfall sound can also be a problem in the case of installation on a floating floor screed. If the edge of the screed makes a firm connection to the wall then the sound insulation effects of the floating floor won't work, explains Pommer.

The traditional thick-bed method used to create a level surface for tiling can sometimes prove too difficult for most hobby tilers so experts recommend using a self-levelling compound instead. Any old screed needs to be cleaned thoroughly to remove any adhesives.

'It's important to check for residual moisture before pouring a newly cast floor,' advises Eva Reinhold-Postina from the Association of Domestic Builders in Berlin.

There is a major risk of damage if anyone walks on the floor while it is still drying out so it makes sense to find out how long the manufacturer recommends for the process as sometimes it can take weeks.

Once the surface has been prepared, the next step is the application of an adhesive layer between five and 10 millimetres thick. 'This adhesive layer is applied initially with a normal trowel to the floor and then spread evenly across the surface with a toothed trowel,' explains Pommer.

Tile spacers maintain the correct distance between the tiles, which need time to bind with the adhesive before grouting can begin.

The joints may need to be moistened, depending on the type of grout used. The grout is applied to the tiled surface using a hard rubber grout float to force it into the joints. The next step is to use a moist surface to wipe the tile clean as the grout is setting.

The joints then usually need to be sealed before the surface is cleaned with a dry white cloth. Grouting is not a very difficult task as long as the proper tools are used and the manufacturer's instructions are followed.

Pommer recommends beginners attend a course before attempting any major tiling job. 'A five- or six-hour course will teach you the necessary theory and how to work practically with tiling adhesive, grouting materials, trowels and tile cutters.'