Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me author Paula Begoun on AHA, BHAs

By April MacIntyre Nov 2, 2010, 20:49 GMT

"Without question, everyone can benefit from daily use of a well formulated AHA - alpha hydroxy acid such as glycolic and lactic acids - or BHA - beta hydroxy acid, also known as salicylic acid - product, both of which are making a big comeback in the beauty industry," she explains. Image courtesy of Paula Begoun

Paula Begoun, a frequent guest on Dr. Oz's television show, skin care expert and bestselling author of "Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me," has released a new product, Paula’s Choice RESIST Skin Resurfacing & Smoothing System, an easy-to-use, 2-piece collection that includes the RESIST Daily Smoothing Treatment With 5% Alpha Hydroxy Acid and RESIST Weekly Resurfacing Treatment With 10% Alpha Hydroxy Acid.

She created Paula’s Choice as a result of frustrations felt when she was a teenager trying to find products for her problem skin and then, later in life, for wrinkles and skin discolorations. Begoun says, "My complexion was a mess and, like many of you, the skin-care products I used either didn’t help or made matters worse."

Begoun has shared with Monsters and Critics the information about AHAs/BHAs and why they are so beneficial.

"Even if you cleanse, tone, apply a sunscreen in the morning and a moisturizer at night, there's still one thing missing that could make all the difference in the world to get you the skin you want: an exfoliant! But not your run-of-the-mill face scrub,: explains Begoun.

"Without question, everyone can benefit from daily use of a well formulated AHA - alpha hydroxy acid such as glycolic and lactic acids -  or BHA - beta hydroxy acid, also known as salicylic acid -  product, both of which are making a big comeback in the beauty industry," she explains.

According to Paula Begoun, “Skin naturally sheds billions of skin cells each day, but this natural shedding can slow or stop altogether due to sun damage, dry skin, oily skin, genetics, or different skin disorders, resulting in dull skin, clogged pores, blemishes, white bumps and uneven skin tone.” 

Using an exfoliant helps put everything in balance again, but many consumers know little about what exactly an AHA/BHA is or how to use them.

What's The Difference between AHA and BHA Exfoliants?

Begoun tells M&C: "When properly formulated, both AHAs and BHA are brilliant options for exfoliating the surface of skin, but each has its special qualities to consider when deciding which one to use":

    * AHAs are preferred for sun-damaged and dry skin because they exfoliate on the surface of skin and have the added benefit of also improving moisture content.  Try using one like Paula's Choice 8% AHA Gel, which is best for normal to dry, sun-damaged skin.

    * BHA is preferred for oily, acne-prone skin and for treating blackheads and white bumps because BHA can get through the oil that's clogging pores, normalizing the lining of the misshapen pore that contributes to acne.  The BHA products from Paula's Choice CLEAR line are designed specifically for oily/combination skin, blackhead-prone skin, and for those with acne.

    * BHA has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial action, two more reasons to use a BHA exfoliant on acne or sensitive, reddened skin.

    * BHA is preferred for those struggling with rosacea.  Not everyone with rosacea can tolerate an exfoliant, but it is wise to experiment with a BHA product to see how rosacea responds.  It is likely that the user will see less redness and a smoother, more even skin with fewer breakouts.

    * For those with sun-damaged skin who also struggle with acne or clogged pores, a BHA product can be a great option.  Some users may opt to use both an AHA and BHA at the same time.  Though this is not really necessary, some people find they work well when they're applied at the same time.  For those who choose this approach, it is best to apply them separately; one during the day and one in the evening.

Paula's Guide to Using/Applying an AHA or BHA Exfoliant

    * Apply an AHA or BHA product once or twice a day.  Make sure to follow morning treatments with an SPF with a minimum level of 15.
    * Apply either of these around the eye area but not on the eyelid or directly under the eye.
    * Apply the AHA or BHA product after face is cleansed and after toner has dried.
    * Once the AHA or BHA has been absorbed, other products such as a moisturizer, serum, eye cream, sunscreen, and/or foundation may be applied.
    * For those using a topical prescription product such as Renova, other retinoids, or any of the topical prescription products for rosacea, apply the BHA or AHA first.

Begoun's new RESIST Skin Resurfacing & Smoothing System, www.paulaschoice.com, includes: RESIST 5 and 10 percent 

RESIST Daily Smoothing Treatment With 5% Alpha Hydroxy Acid contains a specialized complex of ingredients proven to remodel aging skin, bringing it to a healthier and more youthful state. 5% alpha hydroxy acid gently exfoliates dead, dull skin for a healthy, radiant glow.

Apply daily by dispensing 1–2 pumps and smoothing over entire face. Follow with RESIST Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum and/or RESIST Barrier Repair Moisturizer—this combination gives you a restorative overnight treatment, according to Begoun. "First-time users should apply once daily, preferably at night.  For maximum results, alternate with RESIST Weekly Resurfacing Treatment with 10% Alpha Hydroxy Acid once per week.  Avoid direct contact with eyes."

RESIST Weekly Resurfacing Treatment With 10% Alpha Hydroxy Acid enhances and boosts the effects of the RESIST Daily Smoothing Treatment.  Use Paula's Choice RESIST Weekly Resurfacing Treatment for a deeper, more targeted exfoliation.  Containing 10% alpha hydroxy acid, the Resurfacing Treatment will evenly and imperceptibly take away dull, sun damaged skin to create a more youthful glow. From the first use, the results will be completely impressive, especially for anyone with sun-damaged skin or pronounced wrinkles.
      
Apply a dime-sized amount once per week at night over the entire face using either clean fingertips or a cotton pad.  The treatment can be left on overnight or rinsed off after 10 minutes, depending on your skin type. 

Follow with RESIST Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum and/or RESIST Barrier Repair Moisturizer. Do not use other exfoliants (including scrubs) on the evenings you apply this treatment, says Begoun.